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Because of church opening times, you should take this walk (two to four hours) starting at about 10am or at 4pm. Starting with the Theatre of Marcellus, notice the soaring buttresses that support the palace, added in the 16th century. Heading round the next corner, in Santa Maria in Campitelli (see Cafés, Gelaterie and Bars) use binoculars to espy the oak leaves depicted in the altar’s tiny icon. Continuing west, as you approach the Fontana delle Tartarughe, listen for the sound of splashing water echoing off the medieval walls. To the north, the Crypta Balbi Museum (see Crypta Balbi) has fascinating displays about the neighbourhood’s history. One block north is the awe-inspiring Gesù.
For one of the best cappuccino-cornetto combinations in town, stop off at Bernasconi (Piazza Cairoli, 16).
At Sant’Andrea della Valle look up at the unusual barrel-vaulted ceiling. Then head south to Via di Grotta Pinta for the remains of the Theatre of Pompey . A block northwest, in the piazza of the Palazzo Farnese (see p104), admire the twin fountains, composed of stone tubs from the Baths of Caracalla. Walk across Campo de’ Fiori to Palazzo della Cancelleria to contemplate its Renaissance perfection.
End with a drink at La Curia di Bacco set in 1st-century BC vaults of the Theatre of Pompey.
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