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Rome : Editor's choice

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  • German author Goethe lived here from 1786 to 1788 (see Wolfgang Goethe), and his letters are on display.

  • Cousin to Frascati, from neighbouring hilltowns, also made with Trebbiano grapes.

  • This old favourite from over the border in Tuscany is one of the most common reds you’ll find in Rome’s bars and restaurants.

  • Pietro da Cortona painted the dome and apse and Rubens three sanctuary canvases for this 1575 church.

  • Coda alla vaccinara

    Oxtail braised in celery and tomato broth. Like pajata , this is a product of trying to make something out of the quinto quarto (the unusable “fifth fourth” of the day’s butchering), which was part of the take-home pay of 19th-century slaughterhouse workers. Checchino dal 1887, the restaurant that came up with this delicacy, is one of Rome’s finest (see Felice).

  • Another Trebbiano-based white from the slopes of Lazio’s dormant volcano.

  • The outline of this AD 86 stadium is echoed in Piazza Navona, built on top of its remains.

  • A bishop’s taste-tester, sampling this sweet white in a northern Lazio lakeside village, excitedly ran to the door and scribbled “Est! Est! Est! ” (Latin for “This is it!”).

  • This wide basin at the end of the Paola aqueduct is a favourite backdrop for wedding photos (see Romantic Spots).

  • This small wall fountain (probably from the 1570s) is fashioned as a water-seller whose barrel forever spouts fresh water.

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