In ancient times the largest of Rome’s seven hills was almost entirely residential, consisting mostly of upper-class villas. The western slope of the quarter, just behind the Imperial Fora (see The Colosseum and Imperial Fora) was considered rather unhealthy as it was densely populated - the massive wall at the back of the Fora was intended to keep the squalid slum out. However, in the 4th century, this zone became central to the development of Christianity. In setting up the religion as the official faith, Constantine did not dare step on too many pagan toes, so he established Christian centres outside of town, on the sites of holy tombs. The main one was what is now San Giovanni in Laterano (Saint John in Lateran). Other churches quickly followed, culminating in the striking Santa Maria Maggiore, built in the 5th century. The district remains steeped in history and religious mystique.
A torch (flashlight) and binoculars are useful accessories to study church features close up-
The eponymous couple divide the labour expertly, she as chef and he as maître d’ . Try the menu degustazione for a sampling of each day’s masterworks. Reservations a must.
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If classic Italian movie posters or the Italian versions of Hollywood films interest you, you will spend hours browsing in this unique little shop.
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Cuisine from Sardinia, which adds up to lots of fish and lots of flavour.
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A traditional neighbourhood restaurant. Try risotto alla pescatore (seafood risotto).
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A fashionable department store, with reasonable prices. It’s mostly clothing, shoes and accessories, but they also carry kitchenware and more general furnishings.
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A clubby old wine bar. Bottles from around the world to choose from, as well as a decent menu of salads, pastas, sandwiches and more.
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One of the few places in the city where you can find Chinese, Thai and Indian spices and cooking pastes.
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Morning
Start with San Clemente , with its fascinating layers. At the lowest level use a torch (flashlight) to appreciate the beautiful fresco of the head of a bearded man.
Walk one block over to the Via dei Santi Quattro Coronati to glimpse the produce market (see Quattro Coronati); turn left and walk up the hill to Santi Quattro Coronati, a rich and little visited 4th-century church with remarkable frescoes in the chapel (1246). Continue on until you reach San Giovanni in Laterano (see San Giovanni in Laterano and Scala Santa). The cloisters with gorgeously twisted columns and mosaic inlays will make your visit truly memorable.
For an equally memorable lunch, head to Cannavota .
Afternoon
After lunch, it’s time for another of the great basilicas, Santa Maria Maggiore . Check out the ancient column in front and inside use binoculars to examine the 5th-century mosaics lining the upper reaches of the nave. Finally, cut over to Santa Prassede, where you can take in some of Rome’s most radiant Byzantine mosaics and a powerful painting of the Flagellation in the sacristy.
For sustenance after your spiritual journey, continue down the hill, past Santa Maria Maggiore’s grand staircase and enjoy a drink at L’Angolo di Napoli , or stay for a dinner of Neapolitan-style pizza.
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Seafood and fusion cuisine served by a bilingual staff.
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Elegant Indian restaurant, a cut above the rest. The food is superbly prepared in north-Indian style.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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