The original hill of Rome, the Quirinal was mainly residential in Imperial times, noted for its grand baths and temples. In the Middle Ages, it reverted to open countryside and it wasn’t until the 16th century that it again became important, when the crest of the hill was claimed for the pope’s new palace. Following that, important papal families built their large estates all around the area, including the Barberini, the Corsini and the Ludovisi. The Quirinal Palace has passed through many metamorphoses but the biggest change to the area came after 1870. The Ludovisi sold off their huge villa to developers, and Via Veneto and the smart area around it became an instant success with the wealthy classes of the newly unified country. This quarter speaks of elegance and power throughout all its ages.
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The Capuchin Crypt. An amazing set of rooms beneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini on the Via Veneto. It is the final resting place for over 4,000 Capuchin monks. Their bones are arranged in intricate patterns, their skulls are piled high in formations, some bones hang from the ceiling as working light fixtures, and there are mummified holy men, still in their religious garb. It sounds grisly, but it’s actually very moving and life-affirming. The message is: Live your life to the full while you’re here; a very Italian sentiment.
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A classy wine bar with a full menu of soups, pastas, cheeses and cured meats.
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This lazy curve of a street sports a number of belle époque grand hotels and canopied pavement cafés. It enjoyed its famous dolce vita (sweet life) heyday in the 1950-60s, when movie stars supped, sipped and simpered here for the paparazzi. Today, the allure is sadly limited for anybody other than tourists, but every visitor to Rome should come at least once to take a stroll here.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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