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Morning
Start on Quirinal Hill, also known as Monte Cavallo after the horse sculptures, here. Sadly, the vast blandness of the Palazzo del Quirinale does little to spur the imagination. Walk halfway down Via del Quirinale and across from a gate, you’ll find Bernini’s architectural tour de force, Sant’ Andrea al Quirinale. Inside, note the many maritime motifs, symbolic of Andrew the fisherman.
Continue on to Borromini’s San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. Don’t miss the masterful crypt and the exquisite cloister. Two blocks along, take a right to the Aula Ottagona (see Baths of Diocletian and Aula Ottagona). The ancient bronzes of the Prince and the Boxer are amazing expressions of controlled power.
Now take Via Bissolati to Via Veneto. Check out the cafés, shops and hotels before enjoying lunch at the elegant Gran Caffè Doney .
Afternoon
After lunch, admire the belle époque Excelsior Hotel (see Westin Excelsior) for its appealing architecture, especially its cupola and sexually ambiguous caryatids. And don’t miss the public rooms of the sublime Regina Baglioni , which positively reek of luxury.
Finally, after soaking up all the opulence, walk down to visit the eerie Capuchin Crypt to put things back in perspective. Round off your tour with a stop at Piazza Barberini and Bernini’s marvellously life-affirming Triton Fountain.
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