DK Travel : Rome : The Quirinal and Via Veneto

The original hill of Rome, the Quirinal was mainly residential in Imperial times, noted for its grand baths and temples. In the Middle Ages, it reverted to open countryside and it wasn’t until the 16th century that it again became important, when the crest of the hill was claimed for the pope’s new palace. Following that, important papal families built their large estates all around the area, including the Barberini, the Corsini and the Ludovisi. The Quirinal Palace has passed through many metamorphoses but the biggest change to the area came after 1870. The Ludovisi sold off their huge villa to developers, and Via Veneto and the smart area around it became an instant success with the wealthy classes of the newly unified country. This quarter speaks of elegance and power throughout all its ages.

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Exploring the Quirinal

Morning

Start on Quirinal Hill, also known as Monte Cavallo after the horse sculptures, here. Sadly, the vast blandness of the Palazzo del Quirinale does little to spur the imagination. Walk halfway down Via del Quirinale and across from a gate, you’ll find Bernini’s architectural tour de force, Sant’ Andrea al Quirinale. Inside, note the many maritime motifs, symbolic of Andrew the fisherman.

Continue on to Borromini’s San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. Don’t miss the masterful crypt and the exquisite cloister. Two blocks along, take a right to the Aula Ottagona (see Baths of Diocletian and Aula Ottagona). The ancient bronzes of the Prince and the Boxer are amazing expressions of controlled power.

Now take Via Bissolati to Via Veneto. Check out the cafés, shops and hotels before enjoying lunch at the elegant Gran Caffè Doney .

Afternoon

After lunch, admire the belle époque Excelsior Hotel (see Westin Excelsior) for its appealing architecture, especially its cupola and sexually ambiguous caryatids. And don’t miss the public rooms of the sublime Regina Baglioni , which positively reek of luxury.

Finally, after soaking up all the opulence, walk down to visit the eerie Capuchin Crypt to put things back in perspective. Round off your tour with a stop at Piazza Barberini and Bernini’s marvellously life-affirming Triton Fountain.
Gran Caffè Doney

One of the best spots in the world to sit under the magnolias, sip cappuccino and watch passers-by - although they’re mostly tourists now not the celebrities of old (see Cafés and Gelaterie).
Gran Caffè Roma

Located in an elegant curve of the street, with outdoor tables at the bottom of a broad staircase. A great spot to linger over your cappuccino and newspaper.
Hard Rock Café

It was inevitable that this international chain would choose Via Veneto for its Roman home. Serves standard American fare.
Harry’s Bar

Noted for its clubby American style - a dry Martini, tuxedo and cigar sort of place, featuring a piano bar, a restaurant with gourmet cuisine, and a café with tables outside. Be prepared to spend lavishly.
Jackie O’

As the name implies, this was a leading watering-hole and club in the 1960s. It still attracts international stars. Call ahead if you are not world-famous.
La Giara

A traditional trattoria with an unpretentious charm. The menu includes mussels with pork and curry.
La Scala

A most inviting setting, with wood panelling and stained-glass skylights, situated at the top of a grand staircase. Unusual dishes such as bombolotti spada e melanzane - pasta tubes with swordfish and aubergine (eggplant). Dinner only; reserve.
La Terrazza dell’Eden

At the top of the erstwhile premier celebrity hotel, this bar-restaurant has perhaps the best views in Rome. It’s perfect for a romantic tête-à-tête or any special do (see Eden).
Mariano

A pleasant setting with fine roasted game or abbacchio (lamb).

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €30
- €30-40
- €40-50
- €50-60
- over €60