traveldk.com

This tiny city-state is home to the Pope, the world’s greatest museum, largest church, and the most astounding work of art ever created – Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling.

The most perfectly preserved of all ancient temples, this marvel of architectural engineering has a giant oculus forever open to the sky.

At the once-bustling heart of ancient political, judicial and commercial power, there’s now an evocative emptiness, punctuated by grandiose arches, solitary columns and carved rubble.

At the once-bustling heart of ancient political, judicial and commercial power, there’s now an evocative emptiness, punctuated by grandiose arches, solitary columns and carved rubble.

A stunningly beautiful pleasure-palace, this was the vision of an immensely rich, hedonistic papal nephew, who filled it with Graeco-Roman, Renaissance and Baroque works by the greatest masters.

Imperial Rome constructed many impressive monuments, including the spectacular amphitheatre.

Extending over several square kilometres, the remarkable ruins of ancient Rome’s main port city hold many surprises and convey a powerful sense of everyday Imperial life.

These collections, housed at two sites, feature some of the world’s finest ancient art, including Classical sculpture and stunning mosaics.

Built over emperors’ tombs, this church offers one of Rome’s richest displays of Renaissance and Baroque art, including masterpieces by Pinturicchio, Raphael, Caravaggio and Bernini.

Comfortable, cosy Guinness pub, pleasantly removed from the hubbub of the nightlife core that has recently sprouted down the road. Basic snacks are also served and there’s an Internet terminal.

Comfortable, cosy Guinness pub, pleasantly removed from the hubbub of the nightlife core that has recently sprouted down the road. Basic snacks are also served and there’s an Internet terminal.

Rather like entering a time-warp that lands you up in Ireland. A warm, inviting two-floor place that can get very noisy and packed, but always stays cheerful. A very eclectic menu of simple, tempting fare available until 1am, and brunch on Sunday.

This is definitely Rome’s premier jazz venue, thick with atmospheric cigarette smoke. The management regularly books first-rate international talent as well as local musicians and serves excellent food, too. Reservations are highly recommended.

Alexanderplatz

Voted Trastevere’s most decadent venue by its loyal, discerning clientele. Whoever’s on duty any given night sets the idiosyncratic musical tone, so there’s always something unexpected happening here, including live jam sessions. The wildness doesn’t really begin until after midnight, and then goes on until dawn. An excellent brunch is served at weekends.

For those who crave most of all to see and be seen, this is the place to drape your designer-clad self, especially on warm summer evenings when you can pose unashamed at an outdoor table. In the winter, it’s a cosier, less self-conscious local favourite, although it’s always pretty pricey, as are most places in the Piazza Navona area.

A must-see for its outlandish decor, which was the brainchild of the proprietor Jonathan, a former circus performer and also the artist. Taking a cue from his Baroque forbears, he’s covered practically every square inch of the place with squirming colour. There’s a piano bar and floor shows.

One of the liveliest hubs of Campo de’ Fiori’s renowned nightlife, pumping out loud rock music. Very popular with young Romans and foreigners alike. Happy Hour is from 7 to 9pm; brunch is served at weekends.

This historic wine bar is an established favourite with the locals. Smoky and definitely cosy during the winter, but spilling out onto the Campo de’ Fiori in the summer. Prices for wine and beer are low, especially if you stand at the bar, and there are a few well-chosen snacks.

Romans visit the graves of loved ones.

Dressing up, parties and pranks.

Dressing up, parties and pranks.

Most churches celebrate the Saviour’s birth, but tickets are required for St Peter’s.

Commemorating a papal vision of an August snowfall in the 4th century, white petals float down from the ceiling of S Maria Maggiore.

Held in front of the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (see San Giovanni in Laterano and Scala Santa), this is a vast, free event, boasting a line-up of top Italian popstars and the occasional international luminary. It’s in celebration of socialist Italy’s “Day of the Worker”, when just about everything shuts down.

Every 21 April there’s a gala civic observance in the Piazza del Campidoglio, celebrating Rome’s traditional founding in 753 BC (see Romulus and Remus). Music, fireworks and a speech by the mayor mark the event, but the best news is that the Musei Capitolini are free of charge and open until 10pm.

Orchestral and choral concerts in Trinita dei Monti and a mass of azaleas take over this popular gathering place. End of March.

Not only does the Rome Opera Company offer its usual summer programme in the Baths of Caracalla, but there are also a number of other opera programmes all over the city, with singers from around the globe.

Latin music and, recently, world music, jazz, rock and pop, too, every night throughout the summer, including a few big international names. Held on the vast grounds of a racetrack, converted into dance floors, shops and restaurants.

After hours of walking around the Forum and the Colosseum in the high summer heat, these green slopes can be a welcome sight. Most of the park is actually the roof of Nero’s Golden House, and you can see skylight structures for its rooms. If you haven’t had enough of sightseeing, you can also examine the massive remains of the Baths of Trajan scattered about the area.

Extensive, elegant and full of shady glades and beautiful fountains, this is a great park for a stroll, a picnic or a jog. You can also go boating on the artificial lake, rent a bicycle or in-line skates.

The graceful botanical gardens and grounds of Palazzo Corsini now provide one of the most enjoyable places to while away an hour or two and breathe in air richly perfumed by more than 7,000 plant species that thrive here. The gardens, which now belong to the University of Rome, include indigenous and exotic varieties, grouped according to ecosystems.

This huge public park, originally the hunting reserve of King Vittorio Emanuele III, has rolling lawns, serene waters and copses. It’s worth the trip out if you need an antidote to the fumes and noise of the city. On summer nights the lake at the far end hosts food stalls and concerts.

One of the very newest city parks makes an ideal break from this hectic district. Sitting on a bench by a well-tended lawn, with flowers in bloom and the gently splashing fountain, can go a long way towards restoring frayed nerves.

Rome’s largest green area, extending from the Gianicolo along the ancient Via Aurelia. It’s a terrific place for a run and offers a course of exercise posts. Its hills are adorned with villas, fountains, lakes and orangeries and are perfect for strolls; or enjoy a picnic under the umbrella pines.

This house under an ancient church belonged to two Constantinian officials, martyred in AD 362. There is also a series of buildings, including a frescoed nymphaeum, dating from the 1st to 4th centuries.

A perfect neighbourhood square: cafés, shops, a fine restaurant, and a 17th-century palazzo abutting a medieval church, its mosaics romantically floodlit at night. A fountain fitted with shells by Carlo Fontana (1682) atop a pedestal of stairs serves as benches for backpackers to strum guitars and tourists to eat ice cream (see Santa Maria in Trastevere).

Most visitors seek out this church as the setting of the first act of Puccini’s opera Tosca , but the Counter-Reformation giant is also important in its own right. It has the city’s second-largest dome, a flamboyant Baroque façade and some wonderful frescoes by Domenichino inside.

Tradition holds that if you throw coins into this 1732 Nicola Salvi fountain, you ensure a return to Rome. Ingeniously grafted on to the back of a palazzo (even the windowsills mutate into rough rocks), the Trevi marks the end of the Acqua Vergine aqueduct, built by Agrippa in 19 BC from a spring miraculously discovered by a virgin.

Roasted Roman spring lamb, so succulent the name claims you’ll “burn your fingers” in your haste to eat it. When abbacchio (lamb) is unavailable, once the spring slaughter is over, they switch to less tender agnello (young mutton).

Independent bookstore specializing in exquisite art books. It stays open until 10pm on Sundays..

If the cachet of spending vast quantities of cash appeals, this shop should be top on your list for your next shoe purchase.