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Begin in Piazza SS Apostoli to see its namesake church (see Santissimi Apostoli) and the 2nd-century AD relief of an Imperial eagle against the portico’s right wall. Then continue straight across Via dell’Umilità and through the elaborate iron, glass, and frescoed 1880s pedestrian passage. Turn right on Via di Muratte to the Trevi Fountain . Your three coins tossed over your shoulder should ensure a return trip. Leave the square on Via di Lavoratore and turn left on Via di Panetteria for some of Rome’s best gelato at San Crispino .
Turn right up Via del Tritone and left on Via Francesco Crispi for the Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna to enjoy a rare glimpse in Rome of contemporary art . Walk down Via Capo le Case and right on Via Due Macelli into Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps (see The Spanish Steps and Piazza di Spagna). Spend as long as you like window-shopping along the grid of streets west of the piazza, but try to finish up by 5pm so you can work your way north, weaving between Via del Babuino and Via Margutta to see the art and antiques shops), to Piazza del Popolo.
Pause for a cappuccino at Caffè Canova , then cross to Santa Maria del Popolo , with its works by Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini. Try to get to Santa Maria dei Miracoli and in Montesanto around 7pm to hear the Gregorian chant, before heading off for a special dinner at Dal Bolognese .
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