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Rome’s ATAC bus network has central hubs at Termini, Piazza Venezia, Largo Argentina and Piazza San Silvestro. Newsagents sell maps; fermata (bus stop) signs list the routes of the lines which stop there. Buy tickets at newsstands, tobacconists or machines at major stops. Stamp the ticket in the machine on the bus; they are valid for 75 minutes with unlimited transfers.

Not always of the greatest use to visitors, the two lines intersect at Termini, mainly serving the suburbs. Good tourist stops include Spagna (Spanish Steps), Colosseo, San Paolo (basilica), Ottaviano (six blocks from St Peter’s), and Cipro (six blocks from Vatican Museums). It uses the same tickets as buses.

The historic centre is increasingly pedestrianized, but many streets are narrow, clogged with traffic and lack pavements. The cobblestones are hard on your feet, so wear sturdy shoes.

Taxi ranks are found at the airports, train stations, major squares and tourist sights. Base rate is €2, plus 50 cents per kilometre in 1-cent increments. Extra fees are charged for luggage, from 10pm to 7am, on Sundays and airport runs. Tip the driver about 10 per cent of the final fare.

Cars are useless in Rome itself: traffic is bad, and parking expensive and rare – if you are on a longer trip, pick up the car on your last day in Rome. Local outfits are rarely cheaper than international ones. Most companies require theft protection; check if your credit card covers this insurance. Petrol is expensive but diesel is available everywhere. Most petrol stations close on Sunday but many have automated machines.

Official speed limits are 30–50 kmph (18–30 mph) in town, 80–110 kmph (50– 70 mph) on two-lane roads outside town, and 130 kmph (90 mph) on highways, where left lanes are for passing only or heavy goods vehicles.

Few hotels have garages, although many have agreements with local ones or a few free spaces on the street. Round blue signs with a red slash mean no parking; white-lined spaces are free (though often restricted to residents); yellow spaces off-limits; blue spaces available for an hourly fee you pre-pay at a nearby machine. The only decent parking rates in the city are at Parcheggio Borghese under Villa Borghese park and Gianicolo under that hill.

Roman traffic makes cycling or scootering dangerous. Sundays are calmest and several roads close to traffic for bikers. Rental outfits include Roma in Scooter and, offering discounts to those with train tickets, Treno e Scooter.

Although for far-flung sights you catch trains at Termini, some sights within Lazio are serviced by local train lines including Ostia Antica from Porta San Paolo station, near Piramide Metro stop. Many are also accessible by CO.TRA.L coaches, including Tivoli (see Tivoli).

TCI (Touring Club Italiano) maps are best and widely available. Road signs (green for motorways, blue for state roads) indicate destinations more often than route numbers; know the name of the first village, town and city on your route.