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The best pizza in Rome but, as is traditional for a pizzeria, it is open only for dinner and, beyond pizza, only serves bruschetta and other simple appetizers (see Antipasto). The thin-crust, wood-oven pizzas come either piccolo (small) or grande (large).

The most famous pizzeria in Trastevere, definitely discovered by the tourist crowds, but local fans never let them take it over completely. The pizza is great, but skip the other second-rate main meals.

This Liberty-style pizzeria, in the Ricci family since 1905, is hidden away on a quiet dead-end street off Via Nazionale. The pizzas are tiny (many people order two) but excellent; complement them with the sweet northern Lazio white wine Est! Est! Est!, after which the place is nicknamed.

There’s a merry war between ultra thin-crust Roman pizza and thicker, chewier Neapolitan pizza. Dar Poeta goes its own road, letting the dough rise a full day (rather than the usual hour), resulting in a thin yet light and airy pie loaded down with the freshest of toppings. Tucked into a quiet Trastevere side street, with some coveted tables out front and more in the air-conditioned brick-walled dining room.

Vittorio Martini’s unassuming little place with its wood beams and a few tables on the cobblestones out front serves perhaps the best Neapolitan-style pizza in Rome, courtesy of award-winning pizzaiolo Angelo Jezzi. The mixed antipasti plate is generous and a great bargain.

Award-winning pizza, shaped vaguely like a ghost with olives for eyes (the pizzeria’s name means “ghostbusters”), and a half-dozen Calabrese snacks. Service can be slow.

Roman mini-chain serving thicker, Neapolitan-style wood oven pies. Cheap lunch menus include cover charge, drink, and a pizza, a pasta, or a roast meat dish.

Thick Neapolitan-style pizza in a modern room or on the roof terrace, with red lamps to click on for rapid service. Lots of pastas and desserts as well. No bookings and long queues so arrive early.

This Trastevere institution’s nickname (“the morgue”) refers to the chilly effect of the marble that sheathes the walls and acts as tabletops. The reception is as warm as the decor is cold, however, and the Roman pizza as excellent as the supplì al telefono (fried rice balls with a melted mozzarella heart that makes a long “telephone” cord when you pull them apart). Open late.

Late opening hours have kept this simple Roman-style pizzeria packed with locals and students for years. Friendly but whirlwind service.