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This is definitely Rome’s premier jazz venue, thick with atmospheric cigarette smoke. The management regularly books first-rate international talent as well as local musicians and serves excellent food, too. Reservations are highly recommended.

Alexanderplatz

One of the liveliest hubs of Campo de’ Fiori’s renowned nightlife, pumping out loud rock music. Very popular with young Romans and foreigners alike. Happy Hour is from 7 to 9pm; brunch is served at weekends.

A must-see for its outlandish decor, which was the brainchild of the proprietor Jonathan, a former circus performer and also the artist. Taking a cue from his Baroque forbears, he’s covered practically every square inch of the place with squirming colour. There’s a piano bar and floor shows.

Trastevere’s historic jazz, blues, rhythm and blues and world music standby, with different acts performing every night. Membership is by the month or year, but unfortunately Friday and Saturday night concerts are open only to those with annual memberships.

One of the oldest Irish pubs in Rome and still going strong, frequented by both locals and out-of-towners. Italians seem to love everything Irish and the place really reels when some impromptu fiddlers get going.

Rather like entering a time-warp that lands you up in Ireland. A warm, inviting two-floor place that can get very noisy and packed, but always stays cheerful. A very eclectic menu of simple, tempting fare available until 1am, and brunch on Sunday.

This historic wine bar is an established favourite with the locals. Smoky and definitely cosy during the winter, but spilling out onto the Campo de’ Fiori in the summer. Prices for wine and beer are low, especially if you stand at the bar, and there are a few well-chosen snacks.

For those who crave most of all to see and be seen, this is the place to drape your designer-clad self, especially on warm summer evenings when you can pose unashamed at an outdoor table. In the winter, it’s a cosier, less self-conscious local favourite, although it’s always pretty pricey, as are most places in the Piazza Navona area.

This groovy hangout has a dungeon-themed, cavernous decor and is mostly frequented by foreign students. A fun atmosphere, with good rock music and a bit of dancing late at night, right in the heart of the Ghetto.

Voted Trastevere’s most decadent venue by its loyal, discerning clientele. Whoever’s on duty any given night sets the idiosyncratic musical tone, so there’s always something unexpected happening here, including live jam sessions. The wildness doesn’t really begin until after midnight, and then goes on until dawn. An excellent brunch is served at weekends.