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The premier restaurant of Testaccio since 1887 boasts Rome’s largest wine cellar. Working-class dishes – this is the place that invented coda alla vaccinara (see Coda alla vaccinara) – and more elegant fare are prepared divinely, with the best selection of Italian and French cheeses in town (see Felice).

Terrace, Checchino dal 1887

Romeo Caraccio runs the dining room in this Liberty-style temple to creative Roman cuisine near Santa Maria Maggiore. His wife Agata Parisella reigns in the kitchen, preparing rich and highly original concoctions of meat, fish and fresh vegetables. Don’t miss her heavenly desserts, including the millefoglie – puff pastry filled with cream.

The quality of the cooking at Trastevere’s famed fish restaurant has gone up and down over the years, but when it’s good it can be outstanding. Prices are stratospheric, even for simple seafood, and the darkened atmosphere of the modern rooms is somewhat overbearing, but it has loyal fans.

One of Rome’s most famed restaurants, favoured by the likes of Fellini in the days before it became too hyped for its own good. Killer location on the piazza, but terribly steep prices. The cuisine is refined Roman and seafood.

The location, inside one of Rome’s most exclusive small hotels, and the chef’s renowned ability to turn both Italian classics and inventive new dishes into works of art, keeps this elegant restaurant on the A-list – and makes it a great place for celebrity-spotting.

This osteria ignores its high rent location, acting as if little has changed since it opened in 1886. Prices are relatively low and dishes are solid Roman specialities (see Roman Dishes). There is no phone and no reservations; come early or expect to queue.

The best Roman Jewish cooking in the Ghetto since 1856 (although also the priciest). Hosts of TV shows have been seen sneaking in to try and unlock the chef’s secrets. Service can be slightly off-hand, but the artichokes can’t be beat.

Archetypal Trastevere trattoria . Block-style wooden tables and butchers’ss paper mats form the decor; the menu is recited by the busily indifferent waiters rather than printed. Good table wine and the food comprises excellent, simple traditional dishes. In fine weather there is seating on the tiny piazza-cum-car park out front.

The latest see-and be-seen restaurant, kitschily installed in one of Mussolini’s pompous travertine buildings lining the piazza. Glass walls and outdoor tables overlook Augustus’s Mausoleum (see Augustus’s Mausoleum). Several dining choices, each excellent: cucina creativa is served in the restaurant proper, and there’s a pizzeria (open until 1am), and a wine bar (open 11am to 2am) serving Thai cuisine. Booking is recommended.

Local businessmen regularly take their lunchtime discussions to this 1906 beer hall sponsored by Italy’s biggest brewery. The buffet snacks and scrumptious main dishes cross Roman and Germanic influences, and the Art Deco murals feature cherubs playing sports and promising “He who drinks beer lives to 100”.