Trastevere, which literally means “across the tiber”, is Rome’s left bank and Bohemian neighbourhood. The former working-class ghetto has retained its medieval character better than any other part of Rome, despite having become one of the most restaurant- and nightlife-packed zones of the city. The Borgo is Vatican turf, a largely uninspired grid of streets strung with kitsch religious souvenir shops and bad, tourist-orientated restaurants. Its medieval character was ruined when Mussolini laid out the grand Via della Conciliazione leading to St Peter’s. North of the Borgo however stretches Prati, developed in the 19th century and one of Rome’s most genuine, non-touristy, middle-class neighbourhoods. Its widest boulevards, Via Cola di Rienzo, Viale Giulio Cesare and Viale delle Milizie, are where Romans shop for everything from sporting goods to CDs to imported foods and the best fresh-baked calzone in town.
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Morning
Begin at San Crisogono ; ask the custodian to let you into the excavations downstairs. By 10am be at San Francesco a Ripa for the five minutes it takes to see Bernini’s stunning sculpture. Head down Via Anicia Antica, right on Via Madonna dell’Orto, and left on Via di S Michele to reach Santa Cecilia. Explore the crypt and pay the nuns a small donation to get up to see the Cavallini frescoes. Head out of the courtyard left onto Via di Genovesi, which leads to Viale Trastevere.
Crossing Piazza S Maria in Trastevere, bear right into Piazza S Egidio and fork left onto Via della Scala. Continue past Santa Maria della Scala and up Via della Lungara to Villa Farnesina . You’ll be here before noon, time enough to spend 30 minutes admiring the frescoes. Take a breather amid the greenery of the Orto Botanico , then return to the heart of Trastevere to enjoy a pizza at Dar Poeta (see Pizzeria Dar Poeta).
Afternoon
After lunch, peruse the collections of the Museo di Roma (see Museo di Roma in Trastevere), visit the marvellous medieval church of Santa Maria in Trastevere and walk up Via Garibaldi to peek through the grille at Bramante’s Tempietto in the courtyard of San Pietro in Montorio . Or simply spend the afternoon wandering the medieval streets shrouded by washing lines, awaiting the dinner hour when Trastevere comes to life.
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A whole palazzo devoted to after-dark fun. The pub downstairs sometimes breaks out a DJ or live band; the upstairs pizzeria broadcasts football matches on the large screen; the rooftop terrace has great views and serves a full menu.
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Rome’s premier seafood restaurant. There’s also a well-stocked wine cellar.
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A little bit off the beaten track, in Prati, but the best jazz club in Rome bar none - Winton Marsalis, Lionel Hampton, George Coleman and many other international jazz stars have played here.
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Trendy, pan-Italian, creative eatery in a lovely setting on Gianicolo hill.
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From kitchenware to furniture, Azi provides slick ideas for the home from top Italian designers.
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Overpriced and indifferent, sullen service but a prime location smack on Trastevere’s public “living room”, Piazza Santa Maria. The spremuta (freshly squeezed orange juice) is made from a kilo of oranges.
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A welcoming joint offering rock ‘n’ roll, cheap drinks and a range of sandwiches and salads.
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Rome’s real house of blues, where the big names book and the smaller acts gig. Only open for live performances.
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You may find the ever popular della Scala playing the role of beer hall or incarnated as a late-night restaurant, depending on the mood. Live music some evenings.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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