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Morning
Begin at San Crisogono ; ask the custodian to let you into the excavations downstairs. By 10am be at San Francesco a Ripa for the five minutes it takes to see Bernini’s stunning sculpture. Head down Via Anicia Antica, right on Via Madonna dell’Orto, and left on Via di S Michele to reach Santa Cecilia. Explore the crypt and pay the nuns a small donation to get up to see the Cavallini frescoes. Head out of the courtyard left onto Via di Genovesi, which leads to Viale Trastevere.
Crossing Piazza S Maria in Trastevere, bear right into Piazza S Egidio and fork left onto Via della Scala. Continue past Santa Maria della Scala and up Via della Lungara to Villa Farnesina . You’ll be here before noon, time enough to spend 30 minutes admiring the frescoes. Take a breather amid the greenery of the Orto Botanico , then return to the heart of Trastevere to enjoy a pizza at Dar Poeta (see Pizzeria Dar Poeta).
Afternoon
After lunch, peruse the collections of the Museo di Roma (see Museo di Roma in Trastevere), visit the marvellous medieval church of Santa Maria in Trastevere and walk up Via Garibaldi to peek through the grille at Bramante’s Tempietto in the courtyard of San Pietro in Montorio . Or simply spend the afternoon wandering the medieval streets shrouded by washing lines, awaiting the dinner hour when Trastevere comes to life.
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