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Considered San Diego’s first suburb in the 1920s, Hillcrest slowly developed into a residential area, offering a quiet alternative to the bustle of downtown. A trolley stop opened the neighborhood up to thriving businesses, restaurants, and theaters; in the 1940s merchants proudly erected a sign that spanned University Boulevard, proclaiming “Hillcrest” to the world. But fortunes changed, neglect followed, and the sign came down. In the 1970s, the gay and lesbian community took up the revitalization challenge and transformed the community into a hip destination with fabulous restaurants, nightlife, and avant garde shops. And the sign is back – in neon.

Constructed in 1929 in keeping with the city’s Spanish-Colonial heritage, white stucco arches, narrow passages, a red-tile roof, and a stately tower pay tribute to the first mission, which stood near this site. The San Diego Historical Society oversees the museum, which is dedicated to the city’s earliest days. Artifacts from ongoing archeological excavations at the presidio, ceramics made by Kumeyaay Indians, clothing, furniture, and a cannon help illustrate the meager life people led. Climb the tower to compare today’s view with that of 1929.

A peaceful enclave among the nondescript strip malls of Mission Valley, the mission’s original spirit still lingers in the church and its lovely gardens. The first of California’s 21 missions was moved to this permanent site only a few years after its founding. Over the years, the structure was reconstructed to suit the needs of the time, transforming it from a simple mission to a fortress with 5- to 7-ft (1.5-to 2-m) thick adobe brick walls. Its famous façade and bell tower have inspired architects to copy the “Mission Style” throughout San Diego (see Mission San Diego de Alcalá).

In July 1846, 500 men, 32 women, and 51 children set out from Council Bluffs, Iowa, on what would be considered one of the longest military marches in history. Six months and 2,000 miles (3,218 km) later, they arrived in San Diego to offer support to the American military garrison during the Mexican-American War. At the Visitor’s Center, a volunteer from the Church of Latter-Day Saints will discuss the historic march and Mormon contributions to San Diego and California.

San Diego’s first commercial settlement has been either preserved or re-created in this pedestrian-only park. Although much of the town was destroyed in a fire in 1872, prompting the development of a new town center closer to the water, several of the original structures still remain. You can wander into any of Old Town’s houses and find museums or concession shops inside, or enjoy one of the park’s many Mexican restaurants (see Old Town State Historic Park).

Kumeyaay Indians once used this hillside for sacred ceremonies. Site of the original Spanish presidio and mission settlement, a lovely park is all that’s left of San Diego’s beginnings. The park contains the Serra Museum (see Presidio Park) and the remaining earthen walls of Fort Stockton, a fortress that changed hands several times during the Mexican-American War, commemorated by bronze monuments, a flagpole, and a cannon. The 28-ft (8.5-m) Serra Cross, constructed from mission tiles, honors Father Junípero Serra (see Mission San Diego de Alcalá).

Grand Spanish Renaissance buildings distinguish this independent Catholic university, its design inspired by the university in the Spanish town of Alcalá de Henares. Of exceptional note is the Founders Chapel with its white marble altar, gold-leaf decoration, 14 stained-glass nave windows, and marble floor. The campus is known for the Joan B. Kroc School of Peace Studies and its programs in law, education, nursing, and engineering.