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Begin at the city’s gay mecca, the Church Street Muni Station on Upper Market. Decades ago, this corner developed a gay identity as the beginning point of the Castro neighborhood, but it is on the next block, between Sanchez and Noe, that the gay shops and venues really begin to proliferate. The Café Flore stands out as one of the premier gay hotspots for a drink, a meal, or just a gaze at the constant flow of fascinating clientele. On the next block, at 2348 Market, is the Detour , one of the most popular and long-lived all-male bars, complete with go-go guys.

Continuing on to Castro Street, take in Harvey Milk Plaza, with its huge rainbow flag, named after the slain gay leader (see Harvey Milk). On the opposite corner, check out Twin Peaks at 401 Castro, the oldest totally “out” gay bar, notable for its picture windows affording a full view of goings on, both inside and on the street.

Pushing on to No. 429, allow the Castro Theater to capture your attention, one of the city’s most ornate cinema palaces, home to innumerable premieres of gay-themed films. Farther along at No. 489, A Different Light Bookstore offers virtually every gay-themed book, magazine, and newspaper in the world.

Finally, just up 18th Street at No. 4121 is Badlands , a cruisy pickup scene that packs them in, especially after 10pm.

Founder in 1904 of the Bank of Italy, later the Bank of America, Giannini financed the Golden Gate Bridge.

Like being air-lifted to a Paris bistro. Specials such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with prunes, Landais potatoes, and arugula.

Italians say the black truffles here are an aphrodisiac.

The AIDS epidemic reached overwhelming proportions in the city in the 1980s.

Postcard central, thanks to its row of perfect Victorians backed by the knock-out Downtown view. The park itself is a sloping patch of green, while the surrounding streets are lined with so many grand old houses that it has been declared a historic site. Two of them have been turned into hotels, although the areas immediately outside the square are not the most salubrious at night.

Handsome Queen Anne and Tudor Revival homes constitute this charming B&B, restored with impeccable taste. Both overlook the famous square with its even more famous view. A complimentary American breakfast is served in the sunny (fog permitting) conservatory. Smoking is allowed on the back patio only. Free off-street parking.

The nine rooms here are all cozily decorated and have names such as The Cabrillo Room and the Sir Francis Suite. Janis Joplin used to stay in the Joplin Room, which has its own sundeck.