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mideon's San Francisco guide

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by mideon.
The Basics
Getting to San Francisco

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Getting Around San Francisco

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Things to Avoid

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Eating and Accommodation Tips

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Things to see
Biking Across Golden Gate Bridge

On Fisherman's Wharf there are a number of bike hire companies that rent by the hour or by the day. As well as 'bike the bridge' a number of other intineraries are available that include ferry connection to Marin County.

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Golden Gate Park

The city boasts one of the largest public parks in the world, with natural beauty and fine museums.

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Alcatraz

Although it was a federal prison for just under 30 years, the myth of “The Rock” continues to capture the imagination of visitors. Even if exploring prison life holds no appeal, the ferry ride makes it well worth a visit.

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Fisherman’s Wharf

Despite rampant tourism and commercialization, the saltiness and authenticity are still to be found here if you take time to look. The views of the bay are unmatched, and you’ll have an opportunity to sample some great seafood.

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Fillmore Street

Fillmore Street is where the real San Frans hang out. The coolest shops, bars, cafes and restaurants can be found here - plus some very hip people. Everyone has posing pooches and the cafes seem to cater for them, as metal water bowls litter the pavement. There's a cool cinema, and when I was there, I was pleased to see it was showing a film by my favourite French Director - see photo. We spent most evenings hanging out here.

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Cable Cars

San Francisco’s little troopers have endured technological progress, and are now the only system of the kind in the world that still plays a daily role in urban life.

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Amoeba Music

Besides thousands of LPs, tapes, and CDs, there’s also a huge selection of videos and posters. A social event in itself.

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Ghirardelli Chocolate

Stop by for a free sample and then stock up on your mouth-watering favorites. If you’re feeling nostalgic take home some white or milk chocolate cable cars.

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Berkeley

Its days as “Berzerkly,” when student protesters and tear-gas clouds filled the streets in the 1960s, are only a fading memory now, although Telegraph Avenue still keeps some of the countercultural traditions alive. A great university, “Cal’s” faculty boasts some dozen Nobel Laureates, while beautiful parks, tree-lined streets, and unique shops typify this East Bay enclave. Berkeley continues to give more “power to the people” than any other US city, with a host of public services and aid to the disadvantaged that puts other communities to shame.

Sather Tower, Berkeley campus

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FOOD
Caffè Trieste

A North Beach landmark that must be experienced if you have any interest whatsoever in this quarter’s colorful history – either from the literary and artistic or the Italian points of view. It’s a really great place for a cup of whatever warm liquid you favor, and to just sit and people-watch or dip into one of the city’s free weekly papers.

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Chevy’s

Fresh Tex-Mex in generous portions. The chips and salsa are free.

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Chez Panisse

The birthplace of Cal-Med cuisine. You’ll have to book weeks ahead.

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Cliff House

Standard American fare, but the real reason to come here is to see the Pacific crashing on the cliffs below and to witness the wonderful sunsets.

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Delfina

Nouvelle Italian might best describe the cuisine here, and it is turned out to near perfection. The decor is fairly stark but not overbearing, and the inventive dishes rarely fail to surprise and delight. Maybe you’ll choose a night when they’re serving gnocchi with peas and morel mushrooms.

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Gary Danko

The French-American menu allows you to create your own mix ’n’ match fixed-price selection. If you don’t have a reservation, head for the bar, where you can order anything on the menu.

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Greens

For two decades, Greens has carried the banner of vegetarianism in the Bay Area. Inventive dishes plus panoramas add up to a treat.

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Kabuto Sushi

A great Japanese restaurant – the sashimi melts in the mouth.

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Kelly’s Mission Rock

Enjoy the old SoMa port while eating a variety of egg-based dishes.

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La Rondalla

Kitsch and fun, this lively place serves Tex-Mex food until 3am. Wash it down with their potent margaritas.

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Rubicon

Great California-French fusion cooking that is always delicious and never fails to wow the devoted clientele of this Financial District high-power dining experience. Excellent wine list, beautiful presentation, and superior service.

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LuLu

The setting is modeled on Michelangelo’s Piazza del Campidoglio, and the large oak-burning rotisseries and ovens complete the Roman theme. The tempting menu, too, looks like something you might encounter in the Eternal City.

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Mama’s on Washington Square

The greatest French toast in town.

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Miss Millie’s

A favorite brunch venue with splendid fare, especially big cinnamon buns.

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Pancho Villa Taqueria

Traditional Mexican fare here is prepared by jolly muchachos and chiquitas .

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Parkside

Creative American brunch at picnic tables on the patio, or in the dining room. Try grilled buffalo burger on rosemary foccacia.

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Royal Thai

One of the best Thai restaurants around. You can’t beat it for freshness and flavor – but it’s very, very spicy.

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Sears Fine Food

A Union Square institution, noted for its silver-dollar pancakes.

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Taqueria Cancun

With its much-deserved cult following, this is the locals’ first choice for cheap, satisfying, and fast Mex fare. Its secret? A red-hot salsa and tortillas that are grilled (not steamed).

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The Bridgeway Café

Great for breakfast or lunch; you’ll find a range of American favorites at this cozy little diner looking right out onto the Bay.

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Yoshida-Ya

One of the old-standby Japanese choices. Although the sushi is remarkable, it’s the yakitori (barbecue) that gives the place its ongoing reputation.

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Lark Creek Inn

One of the loveliest garden settings on the Bay (see The Lark Creek Inn).

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Boulevard

The cuisine is mouthwatering Americana, but in very creative ways. The decor is belle époque ; the service superior.

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Places to stay
just in case...
The Westin St Francis

This grand San Francisco institution still shines in its lovely public rooms, but it’s become a tour-group mediocrity otherwise. The tower rooms do have phenomenal views, however.

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The Maxwell

This beautiful Art Deco hotel dates from 1908 and has a handsome style, accented by Edward Hopper prints. Parking is included – a great rarity.

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Rex

Steeped in California’s literary and artistic traditions, this great little hotel boasts an intellectual air and decor that suggest 1920s salon society. Still, the rooms have the very latest touches, such as voice mail, CD players, and writing desks for guests to pursue their own creativity.

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Queen Anne

Built in 1890, this old mansion has been lovingly refurbished according to Victorian taste. Rooms are all different and filled with antiques. Breakfast is complimentary, and your morning newspaper, too. The views are delightful.

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walking tours
A Morning Walk Around Berkeley

Begin at the University Visitor Center on Oxford St at the end of University Avenue, where you can pick up information and maps. Follow around to University Drive and on to the university campus, passing Romanesque Wellman Hall, then take a left on Cross Campus Road. Straight ahead is the main campus landmark, the 307-ft (94-m) Sather Tower, also known simply as the Campanile, based on the famous belltower in Venice’s Piazza San Marco.

Now continue on to rejoin University Drive and go around to the Hearst Greek Theater, venue for excellent concerts of all sorts. Next, head for handsome Sather Gate, which leads into Sproul Plaza, epicenter of the student Free Speech Movement protests that erupted into almost non-stop socio-political unrest in the 1960s and 1970s.

Exit the campus onto Telegraph Avenue, a kind of Haight-Ashbury East-Bay with radical vibes all its own. Cody’s, at the corner of Haste Street, is Berkeley’s most famous bookstore, and one block over is idealistic People’s Park. Continue on back to Bancroft Way to pay a visit to the excellent University Art Museum and the Pacific Film Archive.

After your walk, for lunch try the unique Blue Nile, ( 2525 Telegraph Ave at Dwight Way (510) 540-6777 Dis. access $$). It offers Ethiopian family-style dining, with delicious stews and homemade honey wine.

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A Two-Hour Hike Around Land’s End

This section of the coast is amazingly wild, especially considering that it is actually within the city limits. Note that portions of the hike are very rugged, so dress accordingly, with good footwear.

Begin at the far end of the Merrie Way parking lot and take the steps down. Follow the trail that passes by the Sutro Baths ruins, to your left as you descend. Continue on along to the Overlook, from which you can take in Seal Rocks and much of the Pacific panorama.

Now double back a bit to pick up the trail that continues along the coast. You will see the remains of concrete military bunkers, which have been broken and tilted by the unstable land, and now decorated with graffiti. Soon you come to a beach below rocky cliffs; note that the surging water is very unpredictable here, so be very attentive. Continue walking and you will arrive at Land’s End Cove, where a makeshift beach, using rock walls as windbreakers, is popular with nudists.

Next, climb up one of the sets of wooden steps to join the path up above and continue on around the bend, where you will be greeted with a stunning view of the Golden Gate Bridge . Keep going all the way to Eagle’s Point and return by way of the higher trail that winds through Lincoln Park (see Golf).

For a meal after your hike visit Cliff House .

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A Walk Around North Beach
Morning

Start at the top of North Beach, on Telegraph Hill , admire the famous views, and visit Coit Tower , making sure to take in the murals. Next, walk down to Filbert Street (see Filbert Street Steps) and go right a couple of blocks until you get to lovely Washington Square , where, at Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church, Marilyn Monroe and local baseball great Joe DiMaggio had their wedding pictures taken. Continue on along Columbus Avenue to the left and pay a visit at colorful Caffè Roma , where you can indulge in a bit of sidewalk ogling. Or, across the street, pay homage to the time-honored US Restaurant which serves some of the best pasta in town.

Afternoon

After lunch, take a left on Green Street and go over one block to Upper Grant , with its funky shops and bars, a regular hangout since the 1950s. Turn right on to Vallejo Street, where a visit to the famous Caffè Trieste for a coffee and the authentic Bohemian atmosphere is a must. Continue on down Columbus to William Saroyan Place and at No. 12 you’ll find Specs’, an exuberant bar filled with Beat memorabilia. Finally, just across Columbus at No. 261 is the immortal City Lights Bookstore , where you can browse the Beat poetry written by owner Lawrence Ferlinghetti and friends.

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