Don’t let the remoteness deter you , for it is the very emptiness itself that commends upon the visitor senses of wonder and privilege in the Far North. The dazzling beaches along the northern coastline are a surprise to many, while further north still are the former Viking strongholds of Orkney and Shet-land. Orkney is green and fertile, and contains one of the greatest concentrations of prehistoric remains in Europe. Shetland is wilder, with millions of seabirds and islanders who celebrate their Viking roots with a blazing fire festival.
For places to stay on Orkney and Shetland (see Carradale Guesthouse, Shetland; Marygarth Manse, Orkney Check out www.visitorkney.com for more information Check out www.visitshetland.com for more information-
Morning
Start the morning from the flagstoned village of Stromness and head out on the road to Skara Brae. The roads turn and undu-late on rolling pasture and are really a network of lanes, but the way is well signposted – a pity in some respects, as Orkney is a delightful place to get lost in.
You’ll need two hours to do the Neolithic remains justice, as well as fitting in a visit to Skaill House and sampling cakes dripping with icing in the café.
Drive on to the great stone circle known as the Ring of Brodgar, and also visit the roadside standing stones of Stenness.
So far you’ve only covered 12 miles (20 km)! Time for lunch over at the Maes Howe Visitor Centre.
Afternoon
After lunch, explore Maes Howe. It’s dark inside, and a guide lights up the runes with a torch. Drive on to Kirkwall. Visit the cathedral (it has a great little café) and the museum – neither of which are arduous or lengthy – and walk the town’s charming streets.
In the evening, dine at the Creel Inn & Restaurant (see Balfour Castle, Orkney) in St Margaret’s Hope and feel like a satiated Viking.
Note, Orkney is a delightful place to cycle and it’s easy to hire bicycles. The car route described above makes a lovely day’s cycle ride if you return to Stromness after Maes Howe.
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Stay here if you can, but if not at least visit. Guided tours of this delightful home are possible during the summer. Not daily, so phone ahead (see Balfour Castle, Orkney) .
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Historic house with a revered restaurant at reasonable prices. The tastiest lamb you’ll find and particularly good scallops and halibut. (see Busta House Hotel, Shetland) .
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This is the most north-westerly point on the British mainland. Perched high on a clifftop stands a Stevenson lighthouse (1827); below, the ocean pounds the rocks in a mesmerizing display of the Atlantic’s strength. Five miles (8 km) eastwards at Clo Mor are the highest cliffs on mainland Britain (281 m / 900 ft). The cape is reached by ferry from the Cape Wrath Hotel, and a minibus runs to the lighthouse in summer.
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Family-run landmark on this stunning stretch of coast. Hugely popular with fishermen, maybe because the restaurant serves mainly game. No culinary fanfares, just honest food in a friendly atmosphere.
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On the windswept Caithness coast is the UK’s most northerly mainland castle, the Castle of Mey. Since 1952, the late Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, lovingly restored the castle and gardens – her own personal taste is very apparent. The castle and grounds are now in trust for the benefit of the people of Caithness.
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Impressive causeways built in World War II by Italian prisoners of war, who were also responsible for the exquisite chapel.
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Multi-award-winning seafront restaurant in a timeless stone village. Imaginative cooking with Orcadian produce – try the wolf-fish broth.
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The UK’s most northerly mainland tearoom with a cornucopia of home baking.
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Britain’s highest waterfall drops 200 m (650 ft) at the end of Loch Glencoul.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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