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This is the most north-westerly point on the British mainland. Perched high on a clifftop stands a Stevenson lighthouse (1827); below, the ocean pounds the rocks in a mesmerizing display of the Atlantic’s strength. Five miles (8 km) eastwards at Clo Mor are the highest cliffs on mainland Britain (281 m / 900 ft). The cape is reached by ferry from the Cape Wrath Hotel, and a minibus runs to the lighthouse in summer.

On the windswept Caithness coast is the UK’s most northerly mainland castle, the Castle of Mey. Since 1952, the late Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, lovingly restored the castle and gardens – her own personal taste is very apparent. The castle and grounds are now in trust for the benefit of the people of Caithness.

Once populated by hardy people who elected a queen and ran their own parliament, Handa was evacuated when the potato crop failed in 1847. Now it is only seabirds that live here – and what a fantastic colony! Of particular note are the belligerent arctic and great skuas, kittiwakes, razor-bills and the largest assembly of guillemots (66,000) in Britain. A ferry from Tarbet will take you to this dramatic island.

When you look from here to Muckle Flugga lighthouse, you’re gazing at the northernmost tip of Britain. Aside from the view, the cliff-edged reserve is a favourite breeding ground for bonxies (great skuas). Alongside these pirates (they steal food from other sea birds), there are gannets, razor-bills, red-throated divers and a large gathering of tammy nories (puffins).

This outstanding warren of underground (but roofless) chambers represents not one period of settlement but at least five. The oval-shaped houses are Bronze Age; the Iron Age added the broch (see Mousa Broch, Shetland) and wheelhouses; the Picts established their own dwellings; the Vikings erected long houses, and a farm was created in medieval times. You can’t beat a good building site and this one, close to the soaring bird-cliffs of Sumburgh head, is exceptional.

The capital of Orkney is an endearing town of twisted streets, ancient buildings and the constant comings and goings of ferries. Most striking of all is the enormous red and yellow St Magnus’s Cathedral, built in the 12th century and still going strong. Nearby are the ruins of the bishop’s and earl’s palaces. The town museum is excellent, and many shops sell an extensive range of Orcadian jewellery.

This magnificent burial chamber, built c.2700 BC, is a World Heritage Site. Stoop low and walk through the entrance tunnel, carefully aligned with the solstice sun, and enter the greatest concentration of Viking graffiti ever discovered. Norsemen plundered the treasure but left the walls with a wealth of runes describing the kind of boasts and grumbles that men still make today. The torchlit tour is absolutely spellbinding!

Around 500 BC the Iron Age people began building defensive forts called brochs. Masterfully designed, these double-skinned walls of dry stones were raised into circular towers, with an elegant taper at their waists. Remains of brochs are scattered across northern Scotland but Mousa is the best preserved. You can only reach it by boat, and then must climb 13 m (43 ft) to the open parapet.

This sandstone pinnacle rising 150 m (500 ft) from the sea is the most famous stack in Britain. It seems constantly to change colour as the light varies, and never fails to mesmerize. Impressively, climbers have scaled its precipitous face. The Scrabster– Stromness ferry deviates to give passengers a view, but its best angle is from land. Hire bikes at Moaness and cycle to Rackwick Bay (on the way visit the Dwarfie Stane, a hollow rock), then it’s a 2-hour round-trip on foot.

Another World Heritage Site, and one that predates the Egyptian pyramids. In 1850, a storm revealed some ruins in the sands. Archaeologists excavated and were astonished to find a 5,000-year-old Stone Age village, which had been abandoned so suddenly that most of the rooms and furnishings were left intact. Today, you can see the stone beds and sideboards of these Neolithic people, and discover how and what they cooked. A visitor centre explains all.