The northeastern corner of Scotland – a veritable medley of landscapes – is home to equally diverse industries, from the traditions of farming, fishing and distilling to the the more recent business of North Sea oil extraction. The high granite massif of the Cairngorms is Scotland’s prime centre for mountain sports. Then comes the forested splendour of Royal Deeside – Queen Victoria’s beloved retreat – and the quilted fields of Buchan’s rich farmland. Along the river Spey is the heartland of whisky production, while on the coast are beaches, cliffs and enchanting fishing villages.
For more information on Aberdeen, check out the city’s website: www.aberdeencity.gov.uk For a suggested walk along the Moray Coast (see Best-Kept Secrets)-
Morning
Leave Aberdeen around 9am and drive on the A93 through Deeside’s splendid scenery to Crathie, where you’ll find Balmoral Castle opening its gates. If, however, you’re outside Balmoral’s short opening season (see Balmoral and Royal Deeside) , then visit Crathes or Drum Castle instead – less famous, but equally impressive .
Return to Ballater, which you passed through on the way, but take the B976 on the south of the river. The Station Restaurant does all-day meals, anything from a bacon sandwich or pain au chocolat to a three-course meal.
Afternoon
While browsing the shops in Ballater, Look out for royal insignias: they indicate the Queen’s favourite establishments. From Ballater find the A939 and drive north on a twisting road. The terrain is wild, heathery moorland and mountainous. The road takes you past quaint and lonely Corgarff Castle, and on to Tomintoul, one of the highest villages in Scotland. From here, take the B9008 to the distillery of Glenlivet for a tour of their whisky-making vats, stills and barrels, and a tasting. Tours last about 40 minutes; the tastings, unfortunately, much less.
Spend the night around Dufftown or Keith with a view to driving to Portsoy and taking the coast road either east or west the next day. About 90 miles (150 km) in total.
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The “Granite City” has beautiful buildings, year-round floral displays and a long beach fringed with entertainments, including the Beach Leisure Centre and the Satrosphere, a science discovery complex. Provost Skene’s House (once home of a 17th-century provost, or mayor, of Aberdeen) is the oldest building, dating from 1545, while Marischal College is one of the world’s largest granite edifices. The Maritime Museum (charting the nautical world from ship-building to ship wrecks) is outstanding, as is the Art Gallery, which mixes temporary contemporary shows with a collection spanning the 18th–20th centuries.
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A Speyside hotel that’s popular with fishermen. Its bistro has earned a good reputation, and wild salmon is a regular speciality. Vegetarians should give advance notice.
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Granite mansion with an up-market restaurant. A la carte or table d’hote menus prepared by a much-lauded chef.
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Bordering the salmon pools of the River Dee, Queen Victoria bought this castle – her “dear paradise” – in 1852. Balmoral remains the holiday home of the monarch to this day and, consequently, the rolling countryside around the banks of the river has taken on the royal moniker. Cast an eye round the castle’s sumptuous ballroom, then make the most of the enchanting forest walks.
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Majestic Z-Plan tower house, which has survived many attacks and contains a treasury of furniture and paintings. In spring 400 species of daffodils are in bloom.
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A superb range of mountain peaks surrounded by pine forests and lochs. Ideal for testing walks, lively watersports and inspiring scenery (see The Cairngorms) .
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A private home, handed down through the generations since the time when Macbeth lived here … or so legend has it. Full of history and delight, creepy relics, magnificent trees and a garden maze (see Cawdor Castle) .
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A delicate tower house with the grace and detail of porcelain. Scottish Baronial style at its best, and with some lovely monkey-puzzle trees in the grounds (see Craigievar Castle) .
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Another exemplary 16th-century tower house, with original features in the Great Hall. Wonderful topiary in the ancient yew hedge.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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