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Scotland is a year-round destination, with continuous natural attractions, events and festivals. But outside the busy summer season, many sights, such as historic houses, either close or operate erratic opening hours. Surprisingly, the weather rarely causes disruptions to transport, but it is unpredictable even at the best of times.

A maritime position ensures Scotland’s highly variable weather pattern. The east is drier than the west, but rain can occur throughout the year, and heavy snowfalls are possible in winter – seldom lasting longer than a few days, except in the hills. Average summer temperatures are 15–22°C (59–72°F); average winter temperatures 1–7°C (34–45°F).

It may look small on the map, but that can be deceptive. Though only 275 miles (440 km) long, Scotland is endowed with 6,200 miles (10,000 km) of coastline and has 787 major islands. So … allow as long as you can spare.

As with the rest of the UK, a valid passport is required to be shown on entry. Visitors from the European Union (EU), United States and Canada, Australia and New Zealand do not require visas, nor inoculations. Other nationals should check current regulations.

Most shops are open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Sat. City shops usually have one late-night shopping (often until 8pm Thu) and many are now open Sun, too. Town shops often close 1pm Sat and may take an afternoon off during the week.

What defines the “high season” (when demand and prices are at their highest) varies, but generally there are three key periods: Hogmanay (New Year), Easter and Jul–Aug. The main holidays in Scotland are 1–2 Jan, Good Friday (end Mar–early Apr), first and last Mon in May, first Mon in Aug, and 25–26 Dec.

Voltage is 220/240v 50Hz. Most places use three square-pin sockets with 3-, 5- or 13-amp fuses. Buy an adaptor at your departure airport, but check the voltage requirements of your appliances first. Most hotel bathrooms have two-pronged sockets for shavers.

For some background reading try Magnus Magnusson’s Scotland – The Story of a Nation , June Skinner Sawyers’ The Road North , and Alastair Scott’s humorous travels, Native Stranger . For guidance on the ground, many maps of Scotland are produced, some showing tourist attractions. These are useful, but the best maps for walkers are the Ordnance Survey Landranger (1:50,000) and Explorer (1:25,000) series. They are widely available throughout Scotland and are essential for any serious walking.

An umbrella, warm clothes (even heavier ones for winter) and a waterproof jacket or coat. The older, established restaurants may require men to wear a jacket and tie, but this is becoming less prevalent. Also, check out the section for special tickets that must be purchased before you enter the UK.

Visit Scotland is the renamed Scottish Tourist Board. It promotes Scotland as a visitor destination, provides good general information, publishes brochures and has a website – an excellent place to start planning your trip.

Visit Britain operates information offices in many cities around the world. Check their internet site or the British Embassy in your capital city.

Scotland has no shortage of regional tourist information offices. Most regions have several main offices open all year round, as well as smaller offices open during the summer months. These are listed throughout this guide.

Many of Scotland’s oldest buildings are under the custodianship of this organization. If you intend visiting several it may be cheaper to become a member or buy a 3-day Scottish Explorer ticket.

This is the other large organization that cares for Scotland’s exceptional buildings – mainly stately homes and castles. By buying a 3-, 7- or 14-day Discovery Ticket (individual or family), you are allowed entry to as many NTS properties as you can visit in the time.

Scotland is a breath of fresh air for the outdoor person. Skiing, cycling, riding, walking, sailing and watersports all have specialist organizations promoting their sports and providing advice on how visitors can enjoy them.

For epicureans, Taste of Scotland is an organization that samples all kinds of places and lists those of a good or high standard, though its listing is not comprehensive. The ToS also publicizes food festivals, events and farmers’ markets.

The Scottish Wildlife Trust operates several sanctuaries equipped with hides, and Scottish Natural Heritage manages sites of environmental interest and special habitats. The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds also has reserves across Scotland.

Although there are several smaller breakdown services, the main two are the AA (Automobile Association) and the RAC (Royal Automobile Club). Rental cars usually include free breakdown cover.

Scotland has four international airports: Edinburgh, 7 miles from city centre (coaches every 8–20 mins, taxis approx £15); Glasgow, 8 miles from city centre (coaches every 15–30 mins, taxis approx £15); Prestwick, 30 miles from Glasgow city centre (trains every 30 mins, coaches every hour, taxi approx £45); Aberdeen, 7 miles from city centre (coaches at peak times, taxis approx £12.50).

Air Canada, Continental and American Airlines fly direct to Scotland. Other transatlantic airlines fly to London, where connecting flights are plentiful.

Direct flights into Scotland operate from many European cities, including Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Brussels, Frankfurt, Paris, Madrid and Dublin.

Eight airlines provide regular services from cities in the UK. By far the greatest frequency of flights is out of London Heathrow and Gatwick. However, airlines other than British Airways and bmi usually depart from Stansted, Luton or London City Airport.

A new superfast ferry from Zeebrugge to Rosyth (Edinburgh) sails daily and takes 16 hrs. There are summer services from Iceland and Norway to Lerwick, and several companies provide year-round daily links to Scotland from Belfast.

Eurostar is the high-speed passenger rail service operating from European cities to London. From here there are frequent trains to Edinburgh (4 hrs) and Glasgow (5 hrs).

Day and night services operate out of London and other major UK cities. Reliable and much cheaper than trains (some fantastic deals if you plan ahead), but journeys are longer and comfort more restricted.

Edinburgh and Glasgow’s principal train stations are Waverley and Central respectively. Both are in the middle of town. Edinburgh’s main coach station is on St Andrew’s Square in the New Town; Glasgow’s is opposite the Royal Concert Hall at the east end of Sauchiehall St.

The M6, A68 and, partially coastal, A1 are the main road routes into Scotland, the latter two for Edinburgh, the former for Glasgow. No border controls, just a “Welcome to Scotland” sign.

Scotland has an excellent internal air network connecting regional airports and the islands with the main airports of Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Inverness. British Regional Airlines offer a Highland Rover Pass: five flights within the Highlands. Buy it at least 7 days before you arrive in the UK; contact British Airways for details.

Britrail offers several types of rover ticket, all of which must be bought before you get to the UK. Scotrail issue several rover tickets for sale in the UK, some of which allow access to ferries as well.

Many local bus services operate but Scottish Citylink is the largest provider, serving over 200 towns and cities. City buses don’t give change and their Day Tickets are cheaper after 9:30am.

Plenty of companies offer tours of various durations and standards of accommodation. Two renowned minibus-and-hostel tour companies are Rabbie’s Trail Burners and MacBackpackers.

Caledonian MacBrayne is the largest ferry company and works the majority of west coast routes, but smaller companies also run ferries to and around Scotland’s 130 inhabited islands.

Roads vary from single tracks to motorways and are generally of a high standard. There are no tolls except on the Forth, Tay, Erskine and Skye bridges. The Highway Code details all the regulations and can be purchased in bookshops.

Taxis are regulated and legally obliged to display a licence number. City taxis should be metered but in remote areas unmetered cars operate – ask for the fare before you get in.

There are some great long distance and city cycle networks. Unfortunately, provisions for bike transport on trains is dire – book well in advance to reserve some of the limited space.

With over a dozen major walking routes and thousands of marked footpaths, Scotland is a great place for the foot traveller. Scotland’s access laws are much more lenient than England’s, and walkers who do not cause damage or interfere with privacy or estate activities are generally allowed to wander the land freely.

Congestion around Edinburgh, Glasgow and the Forth Road Bridge is becoming a daily occurence. Into-city queues build up from 7:30 to 9am and out-of-city from 4:30 to 6pm. If you can, avoid these areas during the rush hours. Radio Scotland (810 MW/92–94 FM) issues frequent road reports at peak periods.

Not a serious problem for visitors as football is not a summer sport and fans are usually well behaved. However, they can be boisterous and noisy, and cause traffic congestion.

These minute flies, which come in clouds and cause itching bites, are the curse of the west coast. They love warm, windless evenings and boggy terrain. From the end of May to mid-Sep they can pop up to ruin an al fresco evening. Dozens of repellents are available, but the wonder cure has yet to appear. Midge nets are essential for campers.

In remoter parts of Scotland and particularly on the islands, the volume of trade does not justify long opening hours, so it’s easy to be caught out. Don’t assume that shops or restaurants will be open late. And in the Western Isles in particular, Sunday is still predominantly a day of rest (see Sabbatarianism) .

Accommodation in Edinburgh for the August festivals gets booked up months in advance. This is the most extreme case but you should reserve beds and tickets for main events in advance of any festival in Scotland, and also car space on ferries during peak periods.

Scotland’s northern latitude and unpredictable weather pattern mean that conditions can alter rapidly. Winter weather in the hills can be particularly severe and apt to change with very little warning. Avoid getting caught out by taking sufficient clothes for the worst the season could throw at you, and listen to weather forecasts, which are updated regularly on radio stations.

The controlled cull of Scotland’s over-population of red deer is an essential aspect of estate and countryside management, besides being an important source of income. The main “Stalking Season”, as it’s called, runs from mid-August to 20 October. During this period, or wherever signs are posted, walkers are requested to seek permission from estate owners before they take to the hills.

Although theft from cars is not common, it does occur. To reduce the risk, avoid leaving valuables on display when you leave your car. If you lose anything, contact the nearest police station to see if it has been handed in – it does happen!

If you come to Scotland from a country that drives on the right, confusion over the direction in which to look for on-coming traffic can easily catch you out. Use pedestrian crossings wherever possible, and, if driving, take particular care when rejoining a road after a break and when approaching road junctions, especially roundabouts.

For any emergency, there’s just one number to dial: 999. This covers police, ambulance, fire brigade, coastguard and mountain rescue. You will receive immediate attention and be asked which service you require.

All hospitals operate an Accident and Emergency department where you can receive treatment on a priority system. You can rely on attention for accidents and emergencies at a hospital, but for any other ailment you should consult a doctor.

Doctors and dentists are listed in the Yellow Pages (phonebook), or you can consult a tourist information office. Doctors usually have certain consulting hours when people can come and wait to be seen. Dentists rarely have unfilled appointments, but will always try to fit in an emergency.

Emergency medical care is free but additional treatment may incur charges. Doctors’ consultations are free for visitors whose home country has reciprocal health arrangements with the UK, but drugs must be paid for at a standard charge. Documentation will be required. Other visitors will be charged as private patients and must pay the full cost of any medication prescribed.

Chemists (pharmacists) sell a wide range of medicines that are available without a prescription. In most cities at least one chemist stays open until midnight. If you depend on certain medication, it’s best to bring a supply with you. Ask your doctor to write out the generic name (rather than the brand name) to help locate its equivalent over here.

Tap water is safe to drink in Scotland and so, thank goodness, is the water from hill burns (streams) – useful if you’re out walking all day. It might be rash to say that there is never any danger, so if in doubt check with locals. Scotland also has plenty of fine spring and mineral water in bottles.

Scotland is not a dangerous country, but assaults and muggings do take place in the larger towns and cities. Take the same precautions that you would in any city: avoid deserted and unlit places, use your intuition about entering less salubrious areas and don’t flaunt money, jewellery or other coveted valuables.

Again, not common, but they are about. Be especially wary in crowds. Avoid keeping your wallet in a back (or any loose) pocket, and only carry about your “day money”. Keep a separate record of credit card numbers and the action to take if they go missing.

In addition to the information under Traffic Snarls (see Traffic Snarls) , the AA operates a Road Watch scheme which lists all problems on the roads (calls cost 50p per minute). Call them if you’re worried about your route; especially useful if there’s the prospect of frost or snow.

Discount tickets for families are available on trains and buses, and for visiting properties under the care of the National Trust for Scotland and Historic Scotland. Ask at other visitor attractions – most will offer some discount.

Not all guesthouses or B&Bs cater for children. It’s worth asking at tourist information offices for those that do, or asking proprietors when making reservations. Children-friendly establishments tend to have family rooms or advertise safe gardens or play areas.

Regional accommodation guides will indicate if an establishment offers family rooms. Many hostels also offer family rooms, but these are usually limited and you should book well in advance.

Aside from camping and hostelling, this is probably the cheapest family and group accommodation you can find. It does restrict you to one place for a week (usually the minimum rental period) but having a base from which to make trips can be just the ticket. Regional accommodation guides list self-catering cottages and caravans but there are also many independent letting agencies.

Visit Scotland issues a fact sheet listing all establishments that cater for those with mobility difficulties. Visitor attractions vary in their provision for disabled access: modern sights tend to be good but historic buildings may not be suitable for wheelchairs – contact them in advance.

This is Scotland’s largest disability organization. It provides a national advice and information service and is extremely helpful. It can, for example, supply information on where and when Shopmobility facilities are available.

Based in London, this is a national charity and the UK’s central source of holiday and travel information for disabled people and their carers.

Another London-based organization, which provides general information for disabled travellers.

A small charity, with canal boats on the Forth (Edinburgh) and Caledonian (Inverness) canals specifically designed for disabled people to take to the water. Their programme is mainly for local groups but with adequate notice they may have room for visitors.

Value Added Tax (VAT) at 17.5% is applied to goods and services. Non-EU visitors can reclaim VAT on goods only by using the Foreign Exchange Tax-Free Shopping form at participating stores; you’ll need to show your passport. This form is presented at Customs on leaving the UK.

Britain is not particularly cheap for shopping, but prices can vary considerably, so it pays to shop around. End of season sales offer the best bargains, as can outdoor markets, but beware of inferior products.

In a global economy where shops can be swamped with imported “Scottish” souvenirs, it’s refreshing to find some outlets that specialize in quality home-produced arts and crafts. Two such shops are Made In Scotland (Beauly) and Highland Origins in Dornie.

Scotland’s tartans (see Kilts and Tartans) come in hundreds of patterns and dozens of forms, notably the kilt. These are complex garments to make and require several weeks’ work. Tweed for suits, jackets and skirts also comes in a wide array of designs.

Shetland and the Borders are well-known sources of woollens, but it would be wrong to restrict your search, as woollen and cashmere design has excelled in the last two decades. For beautiful and unusual wear, try Ragamuffin (12a St Mary’s St, Edinburgh).

Packaged food can make excellent presents to take home. Smoked salmon, kippers (smoked herring), haggis, Dundee cake and short-bread are all popular souvenirs of Scotland.

You could take home Moniack wines or Drambuie liqueur, but by far the most popular drink is whisky, in standard bottles, miniatures or special presentation cartons. Sadly, it’s highly taxed and often cheaper outside the UK.

Another flourishing area of innovative design. It seems that dozens of new and talented silversmiths set up shop each year. Orkney produces an astonishing array of quality jewellery. Some of the more popular traditional designs feature Celtic knotwork and other interwoven patterns, and make use of the Cairngorm, an orange semi-precious stone.

Edinburgh Glass is famed for its glassware. The origins of the company stretch back almost four centuries to the 1600s when the Venitians introduced the skill in the Edinburgh area. They specialize in beautifully engraved goblets, whisky and wine decanters and drinking vessels.

Britain’s currency is the pound sterling (£), divided into 100 pence (p). Scotland’s three banks each produce different-faced notes but these, along with Bank of England and Northern Ireland notes, are all legal tender throughout the UK. Scottish notes come in £1, £5, £10, £20, £50 and £100 denominations. Coins come as 1p, 2p, 5p, 10p, 20p, 50p, £1 and £2.

Banks tend to offer the best exchange rates and are open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. In remote areas you may find a mobile bank parked and open for business. Bureaux de Change work longer hours in the main cities and at airports but their commission charges can be high.

ATMs, or “holes-in-the-wall” as they are affectionately called, can be found widely throughout the country, even in the Highlands and islands. Also, most supermarkets offer a cashback service when you purchase provisions with a debit card carrying the Switch or Cirrus logo.

Credit cards are widely accepted across Scotland but many small shops, cafés and most B&Bs deal only in cash or cheques in sterling. VISA and Master-card are the most commonly presented cards. Certain outlets also accept Diners Club and American Express.

Traveller’s cheques are still the safest means of carrying money and, if in pounds sterling, you can use them directly to pay for goods and services. Check on commission charges when purchasing or cashing your cheques, as practices vary. Keep your receipts separate from the cheques as you will need them in the event of loss or theft.

Internet cafés are relatively common in the cities. EasyEverything has 400-terminal cafés in the centres of both Glasgow and Edinburgh. Internet access is harder to find elsewhere, but most towns will have at least one café, or some libraries and hotels may provide this service.

Public phones are dotted about all over the place. Some accept credit cards, but the majority require either coins or a phonecard which can be purchased at many shops. To call an operator dial 100.

Coverage for mobile phones now extends across most of Scotland but there are still pockets in the Highlands and Islands outside the range of signals. Vodaphone and BT Cellnet currently have the most effective networks in Scotland.

The mail is still regarded as an honourable and sacred institution. Mail boxes may be free-standing or set in walls, and a notice specifies the collection times. These are reliable. Post offices work normal business hours. Many shops also sell stamps. Main post offices operate a Poste Restante service and will hold mail for one month.

The highest standard of accommodation is to be found in hotels, but they vary greatly in facilities, quality and price. Cost generally reflects quality but you can find some great wee (small) hotels that cost little more than good B&Bs. VisitScotland produces a range of guides on all types of accommodation.

There is little to distinguish guesthouses and B&Bs. They both offer rooms in private homes with breakfast included, and you are expected to be absent during the day. They offer great opportunities for meeting locals.

Self-catering flats, cottages and caravans are the most cost-effective forms of accommodation for families and groups, aside from camping and hostels. Organizations such as Visit Scotland publish nationwide listings. See also the Where to Stay section for Glasgow and Edinburgh (see Edinburgh: Luxury Hotels) .

If you’re planning on staying longer than two nights in any one place, most hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs will give discounts, as well as offering special weekly rates.

Aside from the qualifications mentioned in , you can generally tour Scotland without reservations unless you are intent on staying in a particular establishment. This also applies to Youth Hostels, which once had an open-door policy but now can be fully booked.

Tourist accommodation guides and those of other organizations work on the basis that proprietors pay to have their establishment inspected and listed. Many smaller hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs do not consider this worthwhile, so these guides are far from comprehensive. Look out for roadside signs and, if you’re stuck, ask a local.

The Scottish Youth Hostel Association (SYHA) operates many excellent hostels in Scotland and publishes a brochure listing them. Take your membership card and travel with a sheet (some require a sleeping bag). Recently, hundreds of independent hostels have sprung up, and they have their own website; no membership necessary.

There’s no shortage of these either and they are usually of a high standard and beautifully located. Reduced facilities may be offered in remoter areas but the prices will be lower and the views probably even better.

Unless signposted to the contrary, wild camping is tolerated in quiet places where you do not infringe on anyone’s privacy. Always try and find the landowner to ask permission first.

A smart, copper-topped building in the buzzing Merchant City area. A modern-chic interior that’s not too formal, and a delightful penthouse apartment, which can sleep six – all can squeeze into the sauna, too.

An impressively turreted Neo-Gothic red-brick house, formerly the administrative quarters for the nearby Cathedral, which some rooms over-look. The restaurant serves rather good Scottish cuisine. Very atmospheric, aided by the presence of two live-in ghosts.

Named after an 18th-century wedding dance, this inn was built around 1790 and maintains a traditional style. The rooms sit above the popular and convivial bar and restaurant (see Babbity Bowster) and offer fittingly simple, yet comfortable lodgings.

Behind its curiously angular (and, frankly, gobsmackingly ugly) glass façade, Bewleys offers superb value for money. Very central location, and spacious rooms with pristine facilities and pretty good styling. All have TVs and modem points.

The former home of Glasgow’s tobacco merchants, the house has been renovated to provide 40 individually styled rooms (so choose with care), all with shiny pine floors. Owned by the Glasgow Hotel Group, who also have the Townhouse Hotel, near Kelvingrove Park.

While the Novotel is unlikely to feed the mind with recollections of a truly memorable stay, it does the job of providing simple, comfortable accommodation with inoffensive décor, and food and drink readily at hand in the pleasant bar/restaurant.

Renfrew Street is lined by small, B&B-type hotels, and the Willow, along with the Victorian House (see Merchant Lodge) , are the best of them. All have a certain old-fashioned charm, but the Willow has a little more spruceness about it. Simply adorned rooms, and well located for a stroll down the hill into town.

Like its neighbour, Novotel, Ibis isn’t a prospect to get the heart racing, but it does provide even better value, achieved through an even tighter economy of scale in the bedrooms and, particularly, the bathrooms. Central location, and as a place to take a shower and curl up for the night, drifting off to late-night TV, it’s hard to beat for price.

Superbly sited hostel, high up on the fringes of Kelvingrove Park. Small dorms for the most part, plus the odd twin room; separate bathrooms. The SYHA hostel is just a few doors along.