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The tall lancet windows of this impressive ruin must have appeared miraculous to medieval worshippers. And today, it’s hard to believe that such monuments could have been built as early as 1136. Over the centuries, the abbey succumbed to pillage and war damage, and now stands as a beleaguered but romantic spot for the ghost of Robert the Bruce (see North and West of Glasgow) , whose heart is believed to reside within these grounds.

Wonderfully eccentric collection of weaponry and historical bric-a-brac, collected by the great novelist Sir Walter Scott and displayed in his dream home.

Presiding over the nation’s capital, the castle is Scotland’s pre-eminent sight, a truly inspirational historical and cultural landmark (see Edinburgh Castle) .

The greatest castle in a land that’s full of them, not only prized for its crowning position in the capital’s heart, but also for its important history and the national treasures it holds (see Edinburgh Castle) .

This world famous castle wears the nation’s history. Here you’ll find the Scottish Crown, Sword and Sceptre, and the legendary Stone of Destiny. The Royal Mile treads a straightish but diverting path from the Castle to Holyrood-house (see Edinburgh Castle) .

Just when you thought you liked Edinburgh! The worst of the city’s past: murder, torture, punishment, disease and grave robbing.

The best delicatessen in Edinburgh. Trading since the 1930s, Valvona & Crolla offer a wonderful selection of wines, great bread and fine Italian sauces.

Historic church, best known for its statue (in the street) of “Greyfriars Bobby” (1858–72), a devoted terrier who lived by his master’s grave.

Facing an English onslaught in 1314, the Scots – led by Robert the Bruce – achieved a dazzling victory. By defeating the English, the Scots won back their nation and their pride. Their right to independence was ratified by Papal bull in 1329, though the war with England continued for another 300 years.

The site of the decisive battle in 1314 (see Battle of Bannockburn) is marked by a visitor centre and an arresting equestrian statue of Robert the Bruce. At the centre, kids can try on helmets and chainmail, and view Bruce’s cave to watch the fabled spider who inspired him to renew his fight.

Erected in 1869, this 75-m (250-ft) tower commemorates William Wallace and his valiant fight for Scotland’s independence. The climb to the top takes in Wallace’s two-handed broad-sword, but most electrifying of all is the “talking head”, which presents Wallace’s defence before his brutal execution in 1305. Splendid 360-degree views from the top.

Dramatically perched on crags overlooking the plains where some of Scotland’s most decisive battles took place, this castle was one of the nation’s greatest strongholds and a key player in her history. The gatehouse, Great Hall and the Renaissance Royal Palace are outstanding. Check out the programme for special events, from tapestry weaving to sword fights (see Stirling Castle) .

A commanding rock-top castle, concealing architecture of an exceptional quality, most notably the restored Great Hall and the Royal Palace (see Stirling Castle) .

Every golfer dreams of playing here. There are seven courses, including, most famous of all, the Old Course. Book months in advance or take your chance in the lottery for unreserved places held the day before. Fit in a visit to the Golf Museum too. The plush restaurant at the Old Course Hotel is listed on page 89.

The “home of golf” (see Golf Courses) has the oldest university in Scotland, and red-robed students add a colourful, carefree atmosphere to this pretty town. Once the ecclesiastical capital of the country, its cathedral is still a proud ruin, with a wealth of sculpture, and its castle has unrivalled examples of siege tunnels and a curious “bottle dungeon”. There’s also a mile of beach for fine walks, and plenty of hip cafés and bistros.

Impressive ruins, but most famous for the “Declaration of Arbroath”, Scotland’s eloquent charter for independence, a copy of which is on show.

Few castles can match Dunottar’s magnificent setting – it stands heroically isolated on a stupendous rock – and few castles have endured such intense bombardments. In 1651, while harbouring the Scottish regalia (which were secretly smuggled out by a brave woman), it withstood an eight-month siege by the English. It’s dungeons, too, have witnessed exceptional sufferings and deaths. 800 years of attack have taken their toll, but Dunottar remains an almost mythical sight, especially at sunrise.

This is the Queen’s choice. Queen Victoria purchased the estate in 1852 and transformed the existing castle into this ungainly but imposing mansion set in spectacular grounds. It is still the private holiday home of the royal family, and provides a wonderful insight into contemporary stately living (see Balmoral and Royal Deeside) .

Bordering the salmon pools of the River Dee, Queen Victoria bought this castle – her “dear paradise” – in 1852. Balmoral remains the holiday home of the monarch to this day and, consequently, the rolling countryside around the banks of the river has taken on the royal moniker. Cast an eye round the castle’s sumptuous ballroom, then make the most of the enchanting forest walks.

A city in name but a bustling town by nature, Inverness is redeemed from the blight of its shamefully dull modern architecture by the majestic red sandstone castle (now the court house), fine old houses and the beauty of the River Ness. Inverness Museum and Art Gallery invites “hands on the Highland Heritage” (but you have to leave the artifacts behind), and the Aquadome is a fun-packed swimming centre. The Islands Walk is sublimely peaceful.

16 April, 1746 – the last battle to take place on British soil and defeat for Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites (see Moments in History) . The slaughter by the “Bloody Butcher’s” (the Duke of Cumberland’s) Hanoverian army was quick and brutal. The battlefield is gradually being restored to its appearance at the time of the bloodshed. To walk here among the graves of the clans is still a peculiarly emotional experience. The story is well told and illustrated in the visitor centre.

Probably Scotland’s most charismatic loch, this deep body of water is a major draw because of the scenic splendour of the Great Glen, Urquhart Castle and the as-yet-unexplained sightings of monster Nessie (see Loch Ness and the Great Glen) .

Ancient geology scarred Scotland, and the Great Glen is its deepest cut, a swath that splits the land in two. A course of water runs through this great valley, forming charismatic lochs, such as notorious Loch Ness (see Loch Ness and the Great Glen) .

To Dickens this was “a burial ground of a race of giants”, and, indeed, there is something ominous in the raw terrain of this region. It is a magnificent, sublime landscape, chilled by the history of the bloody 1692 massacre (see Glencoe) .

A rugged mountain range gathered into gorgeous scenery through which the twisting main road seems to creep submissively. A favourite skiing, mountaineering and walking area, and infamous for the terrible 1692 massacre of clan MacDonald (see Glencoe) .

Iona is a sparkling island of white sand beaches with an active crofting community. Visitors come in their hundreds daily in summer to visit the famous restored abbey (avoid 10am–4pm for a chance of peace). It was here that Columba came in 563 to establish a missionary centre (see St Columba Founds a Monastery on Iona) . Staffa contains Scotland’s greatest natural wonder: Fingal’s Cave, formed by thousands of basalt “organ pipes”, which inspired Mendelssohn to compose his famous Hebrides Overture .

In 563 this fiery Irish missionary went into self-imposed exile on Iona (known as the “home of christianity” in Europe), and here he founded a monastery. Columban monks travelled widely, consolidating the Christian faith and thus unifying Scotland’s tribes into one nation.

The broad, friendly mountains and poetic scenery of Scotland’s first national park are ideal for the casual walker and watersport lover. Luss is the prettiest village. It hosts a popular Highland Games (see Highland Traditions) in June and has a welcoming tea shop or two. Cruises run from here, and from Balloch, Tarbet and Balmaha.

The largest surface of fresh water in Scotland, Loch Lomond’s beauty is celebrated in literature, song and legend. Now the country’s first National Park, in conjunction with the Trossachs, the loch is revered for its islands, lofty hills and shoreside leisure facilities.

Busy harbour town best viewed from McCaig’s Folly. Many local attractions and ferries to Mull, Coll, Colonsay, Tiree and the Western Isles.

Despite the ravages of fire, clan Campbell’s family seat is a splendid pseudo-Gothic palace with pointed towers marking its corners. It was built for the Duke of Argyll in 1745. The lavish interiors were designed by Robert Mylne and contain Regency furniture and priceless works of art. The Armoury was stocked to fight the Jacobites and is an awesome display of weaponry. If you have time (it’s about a 90-minute round trip) walk to the hilltop folly in the grounds.

The rich language of the Gael can be seen on road signs and heard in shops in the Highlands and Islands. There are estimated to be 60,000 Gaelic-speakers in the country, their stronghold being the Western Isles, but even here it’s a second language. Despite the increase in Gaelic-medium education and the success of Gaelic pop stars Runrig, young people appear less dedicated to the language and its use is in decline.

No sound is more evocative of Scotland than that of the bagpipes. The great highland pipes are played by pipe and drum bands, and by individuals playing for competition or dancing. Over the last two decades bagpipes have also emerged onto the stage of world music alongside every other conceivable instrument.

The physicist James C Maxwell produced the world’s first photograph with three colours in 1861.

Vital ingredients of any Highland Games are the young, kilted dancers competing on stage. They leap and turn, endeavouring to execute the varied steps perfectly in time to pipe music. Among the most common are the Sword Dance, performed over crossed blades, and the Highland Fling. Look out, too, for demonstrations of the ancient tradition of step dancing, now being revived.

No one knows why Highlanders adopted this distinctive mode of dress or exactly when clans adopted a family “pattern” or tartan. The oldest tartan is dated at around AD 245, and by 1746 there were enough clan tartans to be prohibited for 38 years in a purge on Highland culture. Today, with over 2,000 registered designs, tartans are flourishing.

Best remembered for Treasure Island , this revered Edinburgh author travelled widely and died in Samoa.

Mastermind behind Sherlock Holmes. He was born in Edinburgh and trained as a doctor.

Designed for storing cold gasses, Sir James Dewar’s vacuum flask (1892) soon came into everyday use.