Scotland guide
by mcwajda.
Ancient geology scarred Scotland, and the Great Glen is its deepest cut, a swath that splits the land in two. A course of water runs through this great valley, forming charismatic lochs, such as notorious Loch Ness (see Loch Ness and the Great Glen) .
To Dickens this was “a burial ground of a race of giants”, and, indeed, there is something ominous in the raw terrain of this region. It is a magnificent, sublime landscape, chilled by the history of the bloody 1692 massacre (see Glencoe) .
Bird lovers, walkers and winter sports enthusiasts praying for snow all head to the woodlands, rivers, lochs, mountains and plateaux of the Cairngorms, the highest landmass in Britain. From ospreys to reindeer to Arctic flowers, it’s all here to discover (see The Cairngorms) .
Morning
Reserve your morning cruise on the SS Sir Walter Scott (Tel (01877) 376316) in advance, and note that it does not run on Wednesday mornings.
Leave Glasgow by 8:45am, driving north on the A81 to Strathblane and Aberfoyle. You are now in the scenic and famous Trossachs. Park at the Trossachs Pier for your 11am cruise on Loch Katrine, a gorgeous secluded loch.
You arrive back at 12:45pm and a short drive takes you to Kilmahog (great name, but the Woollen Mill is pretty touristy), so pass it by unless you’re overly curious about knitwear. Head on to Callander for lunch, where there’s plenty of choice, or buy delicious pies at the Scotch Oven, a superb baker, and picnic by the river.
Afternoon
Carry on to Doune, Dunblane and Bridge of Allan. There are many temptations en route – castle (see Doune Castle) , safari park, motor museum – and you may fall by the way.
If not, however, aim to be at the Wallace Monument before 4pm. The slice of history here is extremely palatable, accompanied by panoramic views of the area, including the craggy heights of Stirling Castle.
Finally, wend your way up into moorland for dinner at the Sheriffmuir Inn . Either head back to Glasgow or go further east to stay at Edinburgh or St Andrews (about an hour’s journey to each by car).
Presiding over the nation’s capital, the castle is Scotland’s pre-eminent sight, a truly inspirational historical and cultural landmark (see Edinburgh Castle) .
An island of romantic tales and the pursuit of royalty, of strange landscapes and formidable mountain ranges, of castle strongholds and religious communities. Skye is a beautiful, wild and magical isle (see Isle of Skye) .
Morning
Start the morning from the flagstoned village of Stromness and head out on the road to Skara Brae. The roads turn and undu-late on rolling pasture and are really a network of lanes, but the way is well signposted – a pity in some respects, as Orkney is a delightful place to get lost in.
You’ll need two hours to do the Neolithic remains justice, as well as fitting in a visit to Skaill House and sampling cakes dripping with icing in the café.
Drive on to the great stone circle known as the Ring of Brodgar, and also visit the roadside standing stones of Stenness.
So far you’ve only covered 12 miles (20 km)! Time for lunch over at the Maes Howe Visitor Centre.
Afternoon
After lunch, explore Maes Howe. It’s dark inside, and a guide lights up the runes with a torch. Drive on to Kirkwall. Visit the cathedral (it has a great little café) and the museum – neither of which are arduous or lengthy – and walk the town’s charming streets.
In the evening, dine at the Creel Inn & Restaurant (see Balfour Castle, Orkney) in St Margaret’s Hope and feel like a satiated Viking.
Note, Orkney is a delightful place to cycle and it’s easy to hire bicycles. The car route described above makes a lovely day’s cycle ride if you return to Stromness after Maes Howe.
Morning
Leave Aberdeen around 9am and drive on the A93 through Deeside’s splendid scenery to Crathie, where you’ll find Balmoral Castle opening its gates. If, however, you’re outside Balmoral’s short opening season (see Balmoral and Royal Deeside) , then visit Crathes or Drum Castle instead – less famous, but equally impressive .
Return to Ballater, which you passed through on the way, but take the B976 on the south of the river. The Station Restaurant does all-day meals, anything from a bacon sandwich or pain au chocolat to a three-course meal.
Afternoon
While browsing the shops in Ballater, Look out for royal insignias: they indicate the Queen’s favourite establishments. From Ballater find the A939 and drive north on a twisting road. The terrain is wild, heathery moorland and mountainous. The road takes you past quaint and lonely Corgarff Castle, and on to Tomintoul, one of the highest villages in Scotland. From here, take the B9008 to the distillery of Glenlivet for a tour of their whisky-making vats, stills and barrels, and a tasting. Tours last about 40 minutes; the tastings, unfortunately, much less.
Spend the night around Dufftown or Keith with a view to driving to Portsoy and taking the coast road either east or west the next day. About 90 miles (150 km) in total.
Morning
Pack a picnic in Inverness. There are lots of marvellous picnicking possibilities on this route, so it would be a shame not to take one.
Leave Inverness by 10am to make the best of the day, taking the B852 to Dores and drive along the south side of Loch Ness – a beautiful and much quieter road than that on the northern shore. Try to stop off at the Foyers Falls (see Best-Kept Secrets) .
Enjoy the hill-country drive to Fort Augustus, and pop in for a coffee at the bustling Lock Inn, right beside the canal. Walk along the canal to view Loch Ness from the shore behind the old abbey.
Drive along the A82 on the north side of Loch Ness, (stop at Invermoriston to view the river pools and old bridge) and visit Urquhart Castle. Have your picnic lunch here.
Afternoon
Your picnic will, hopefully, have recharged your batteries sufficiently for a visit to one of the Loch Ness Monster visitor centres in Drumnadrochit – fascinating, and rather persuasive.
Refill your thermos in Drumnadrochit, then take the A831 to Cannich, and the minor road to Glen Affric.
Enjoy an hour’s walk in this renowned beauty spot, before returning to the bustle of Inverness via Kilmorack and the south shore of the Beauly Firth. A round trip of 115 miles (185 km).
If you are visiting St Andrews take the time out to have afternoon tea at the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa. Served in the 17th Road Hole Bar which is located on the top floor of the hotel with spectacular views over the Old Course and St Andrew's coastline.
The afternoon tea is fab and with a varied selsction of sandwiches, scones, cakes and pancakes. Well worth the trip.
Morning
If your budget allows, book ahead for dinner at the Peat Inn (Cupar) or the Old Course (St Andrews).
Leave Edinburgh around 9am, cross the Forth Road Bridge (£1 toll) and visit Deep Sea World at North Queensferry (see Deep Sea World) . The fish will enthral you, so allow at least 90 minutes here.
Follow the coast road to Kirkcaldy, Glenrothes and Falkland. Here, have some refreshment in the deliciously organic Greenhouse Restaurant before visiting Falkland Palace. Remember to see the Royal Tennis Court before you leave – it’s unique.
You may be hungry by now, but resist, as it’s only a short drive via Glenrothes and the A915 to Upper Largo, where the famous East Neuk begins. Every village from here on is enchanting. Lunch in Elie at the Ship Inn .
Afternoon
From here it’s pointless trying to advise you further because – as you continue along the coast to St Andrews, passing through Pittenweem, Anstruther and Crail – you are bound to become distracted by this medley of coastal idylls and end up doing your very own thing regardless.
But don’t forget your reservation if you’ve booked dinner, and leave all the delights of St Andrews for another day. All this in just 95 miles (150 km)!
Spectacularly located beyond Britain’s highest mountain pass, this pub overlooks Skye. Local seafood is served, and there is music some evenings.
Situated within Holyrood Park Arthur's Seat is an extinct volcano and one of the seven hills of Edinburgh. Although only 250m (823 feet) is a notable landmark, dominating the city which offer without question the best views of the city overlooking to the west the impressive Edinburgh Castle. It provides for the outdoor enthusiast a great green space in the heart of the city with many different walks for everyone.
If its good enough for John Lennon's summer holidays its good enough for me. Beautiful and wild with one of the best beaches ever. The most romantic place I've ever been - it even inspired my partner to propose. Simply breathtaking
If its good enough for John Lennon's summer holidays its good enough for me. Beautiful and wild with one of the best beaches ever. The most romantic place I've ever been - it even inspired my partner to propose. Simply breathtaking
Take a stroll along this scenic 9-mile (16-km) canal, completed in 1801 and now used by yachts and fishing boats. The best places to see them are at Ardrishaig, Cairnbaan or Crinan.
Scotand’s most beautiful road – drive it in spring when it’s almost consumed by yellow-flowering whins, or in winter when surf erupts against the shore, or on a blue summer evening when Assynt’s mountains assume the shape of absurd scribbles. But do drive it: take the A835 north from Ullapool, go west at Drum-runie, follow signs to Lochinver, then the B869 to Kylesku.
Britain’s highest waterfall drops 200 m (650 ft) at the end of Loch Glencoul.
Established in 1825, this is Scotland’s smallest distillery and its cluster of buildings has remained virtually unchanged for 150 years. To witness the process here is all the more delightful for its being in miniature. Only twelve casks a week are produced, making it (as they say) “a rare treat for a few”.
Two outstanding examples of engineering, one a red giant of Victorian muscle, the other a modern suspended thread. Best seen lit up at night.
The more rain, the merrier for this one, so leave your visit until after a wet day – or seven! The upper falls are impressive; the lower falls even more so, plunging a spectacular 30 m (100 ft). The yellow-white torrent gushes into a black bowl, hollowed deep in the forest, and the almighty roar of the water is as inspiring as the magnificent sight.
Area of superb loch, forest and hill scenery. Take a picnic to the Bruce’s Stone or have a day out on foot or on bikes.
No juke boxes, video games, coach parties, briefcases or football colours. Instead, the Old Forge offers legendary music sessions, superb, unpretentious food, open fires and free moorings if you arrive by boat. The sea almost laps at the door, and Knoydart’s scenery is equal to the best. Combine with the walk by Loch Morar.
Perhaps it’s the colourful strata patterning the rocks (Lewisian gneiss, among the world’s oldest) or the quality of the sand. Perhaps it’s the huge stack that stands sentinel at one end like some antediluvian shepherd. Or the Atlantic waves that charge in with billowing crests. Or is it the fact that so often you can have this mind-stretching expanse of beach to yourself?
Scotland’s first World Heritage Site, this archipelago of monumental cliffs was, until 1930, inhabited by a highly individual community who lived off the islands’ millions of sea-birds. Such is St Kilda’s isolation that it has its own subspecies of mouse, wren and sheep. Hard to get to, but if you can it’ll touch your soul.
A simple, isolated cottage with five-star views over the sea to Skye and the Western Isles – sunsets are utterly breathtaking. Only accessible by foot, Craig is 3 miles (5 km) from Little Diabeg or 5 miles (9 km) from Red Point – and lovely miles they are too. You’ll need to bring a sleeping bag, and bear in mind that there’s no phone on site.
To get to this small coastal village, you’ll drive on pure adrenalin – the road climbs 750 m (2,000 ft) in steep zig-zags to the Pass of the Sheep. Even they have to hold on tight. The scenery – with views across to Skye – is magnificent, and from here the more gradual descent into Applecross begins.
A string of islands connected by causeways, with huge expanses of beaches on the west and rocky mountains on the east. Aside from the scenery, this is also a wonderful trout fishing area.
Well-established on the surfers’ circuit, this flat island not only boasts some of the finest Atlantic rollers on its beaches but it also claims the highest number of sunshine hours in Britain.
Delightful grid-plan village with Gaelic street names, boat trips, ferries to the Western Isles, a museum and the dream-world Assynt Mountains. Visit Corrieshalloch Gorge en route.
It’s only a short walk, about a mile (2 km), between these two captivating villages (see Moray Coast Villages), but don’t let that deceive you. A few Tarzan-ish qualities are required, for in places your only links to Mother Earth are chains bolted to the rock and toe-holds. Given these restrictions, it requires great care but is not hard. A mini-adventure amid rocks and grassy cliffs, ending in the secret world of Crovie.
A combined walk and boat trip through sublime scenery. From Morar’s silver sands, follow Britain’s shortest river (half a mile) to the loch. Tarred at first, the way turns into an undulating track beside the water. It then wends to its destination at the lovely bay of Tarbet. Arrive by 3:30pm to catch the ferry back to Mallaig.
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