More than 600 Islands lie scattered along Scotland’s Atlantic coastline, from seabird clustered eyots to the land masses of Skye, Mull, Lewis and Harris. The West Coast Islands represent escapism at its best and amply repay the effort of reaching them with the distinctive lifestyles and hospitality of island folk. Regular ferries run all year, and special “island-hopping” fares are available.
For information about travelling to the West Coast Islands, (see Getting Around Scotland) George Orwell stayed at a remote cottage on Jura in 1946 to work on his final novel, Nineteen Eighty-Four; for more, (see Island Retreats) For a perfect retreat from (the comforts of) modern life, found on the island of Coll, (see Camping in Breachacha Castle grounds on Coll)-
Morning
Book both your Staffa boat trip (Tel (01681) 700338) and your car reservation for the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry (Tel (01631) 566688) in advance.
Depart Oban on the 7:45 am Calmac ferry to Craignure on Mull (45-minute crossing).
Drive to Fionnphort to catch the 9:45 trip to Staffa (10:45 on Sat). This takes 40 minutes each way and you have one hour on Staffa to walk among puffins and visit the awesome Fingal’s Cave, the basalt rock formation that so inspired Mendelssohn.
On your return to Fionnphort, leave your car and take the quick ferry crossing to Iona. Have lunch in the Argyll Hotel (a particularly good vegetarian selection).
Afternoon
Climb the hill above the abbey. The longer you leave your visit to the abbey the less crowded it will be. Iona is too beautiful and serene to rush, and you may want to spend the rest of the day wandering its shores and rugged terrain, contemplating this small island’s historical significance.
If not, return to Craignure in time to visit Torosay Castle and its fine gardens. Try to get there before 4pm to make the visit worthwhile.
Note: If you don’t have a car, you can do most of this tour, in summer, by boat from Oban – call the 01681 number.
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Swish, modern arts exhibition centre. Part of the draw is the delicious vegetarian meals and snacks served in the café.
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Long a favourite of Glaswegians, Arran is often described as “Scotland in miniature”. Goat Fell is its craggy core, while the surrounds of Brodick Castle offer more urbane, forest-path walks.
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This small isle encapsulates all the charm of the Hebrides: scintillating beaches, the culture of the Gaels, tranquillity and road-priority to sheep. No matter how you arrive, it will make a deep impression: planes land on the sands of Cockle Beach, while ferries sail into a delightful bay where the 11th-century Kisimul Castle poses on an island of its own. A soothing place to unwind.
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Chef Richard Leparoux has chosen the remotest corner to set up his restaurant. Well worth the trek to find dazzling French-Scottish dishes in an old RAF base with picturesque surrounds.
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Cheap bar meals are on offer, as well as silver service with all the trimmings in its restaurant overlooking the village bay.
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Wild flowers, migrant birds, otters, standing stones, active crofts, a castle and a surfeit of beaches contribute to making this a particularly varied and delightful island.
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Colonsay has provided farmland and shelter to people since at least the Bronze Age, and many of their tombs and standing stones remain. Old traditions persist here, and Colonsay is still a strong crofting (see West Coast Islands) and fishing community. Wild flowers and birds thrive on this terrain, but it is the coastline, with its mix of sprawling and secretive beaches, that lures most visitors. Check the tides and walk out to the adjacent little island of Oronsay, with its ruined priory; its Christian roots go back as far as Iona’s.
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Dining room in a meticulously restored Victorian house situated just opposite Mull Theatre and overlooking the glen.
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This former slate quarry has been transformed into a picturesque village. Surrounded by holes and fragmented rocks, it is bizarre and fascinating – a living museum.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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