The island of Sicily is Italy’s largest region and is also its most varied. In terms of geography, there are offshore islands, endless coastline, rugged mountains, rolling wheatfields and volcanos, but its history and architecture are also of note. Sicily formed a significant portion of the Greek empire, was strategically vital to Rome, and was invaded in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish and Bourbons, before unifying with Italy. Each conquest left its mark, to create a palimpsest of cultures on the island.
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Brightly coloured ceramics with designs of jolly peasant farmers and fishermen going about their daily tasks (see De Simone).
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Step back into 19th-century Palermo in the streets of the mandamento del Capo, crowded with farmers, housewives, butchers and every sort of meat imaginable.
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The cult of the Mother Goddess, protectress of agriculture and fertility, is one of the most ancient in Sicily. When her daughter Persephone disappeared, Demeter roamed the Earth searching for her, ignoring crops, and thus allowing the earth to become wrought with famine.
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All-important goddess of agriculture, the harvest and fertility, Demeter’s cult was based at Enna.
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Discoteche open up each summer, often under new names and management. Huge crowds of visitors mix with locals who come from miles around to fill up the open-air dance floors and bars and the occasional billiard room. Look for posters for clubs in places such as Palermo, Marsala and Marzamemi.
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Pietro Germi’s 1961 comedy has Marcello Mastroianni as a Sicilian aristocrat seeking a divorce when divorce in Italy was not legal.
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A villa dating from the 1800s was faithfully renovated in 2002 Neo-Gothic style with Arab-inspired gardens and fountains.
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Typical Syracusan dishes served in a pretty interior with arched brick ceilings.
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Elvira Roccasalva has a passion for traditional recipes, faithfully reproducing by hand the sweets formerly made by Modica’s cloistered nuns. She also uses the best-quality ingredients from the region to create her own recipes: try the carato , made with carob flour, raisins and almonds.
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Each morning, under brightly striped awnings along the wharf, fishermen sell their catch.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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