The island of Sicily is Italy’s largest region and is also its most varied. In terms of geography, there are offshore islands, endless coastline, rugged mountains, rolling wheatfields and volcanos, but its history and architecture are also of note. Sicily formed a significant portion of the Greek empire, was strategically vital to Rome, and was invaded in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish and Bourbons, before unifying with Italy. Each conquest left its mark, to create a palimpsest of cultures on the island.
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An excellent selection of Sicilian, Italian and international wines are for sale in this wonderful Palermo enoteca , and there’s an area devoted to wine-tasting. Although wine is the focus, there are a few carefully selected food items as well, such as olive oil, pasta, honey and marmalade. If you want to relax and enjoy a glass or a bottle, visit their wine bar and restaurant near Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi (see Mi Manda Picone).
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In the centre of Lipari, not far from the Marina Corta (see Marina Corta, Lipari). Four bright private rooms are grouped around a communal sitting room, kitchen and terrace. Enza, the owner, is very friendly and can make recommendations for excursions.
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Below the ruins of the Greek city (see Eraclea Minoa) a little seaside village comes to life in summer. The sandy beach is long, wide and open, and buffered by pine woods. At either end are two bars providing beach chairs and snacks.
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Above vineyards and olive groves thriving in the rocky soil and on the white sandstone cliffs, the ruins of this ancient Greek city lie on a headland above a wide sandy beach. Midway between Selinunte and Agrigento and on the border between Carthaginian- and Greek-held territory, Eraclea Minoa saw its fair share of border disputes. The site is quiet now, and well kept. A small museum and groomed paths lead to an intimate theatre carved into the sandstone, remains of defensive walls with towers and the residential section where a few houses made of local stone preserve their floor and wall decorations. Since it’s not on the standard tour bus route, the added pleasure of a visit is that you may have this gorgeous place all to yourself.
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Knights of St John en route to Malta took refuge in this 15th-century fortified monastic building and it is still offering elegant refuge to travellers. With just 11 rooms, each guest is treated to the most attentive service. Rooms, public areas and grounds are authentically restored with wood and iron furnishings, fountains and stone courts. Excellent restaurant and garden with pool.
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Traditional Ragusan recipes are prepared with vegetables from the estate’s garden, and bread and pasta from their own wheat.
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On the top of a cliff above Trapani, ancient Eryx was known for its temple to Venus Erycina so large that it served as a beacon to sailors at sea. The temple was replaced with a castle in the Middle Ages, and the village, renovated at the same time, still has a medieval appearance. The main industry here is tourism and it feels like it, but it’s a nice visit: local artisans make good ceramics and rugs, and the views are spectacular – on a clear day you can see all the way to Africa.
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Erice has managed to maintain much of its medieval charm. The buildings are all built of locally quarried white stone, adding to its storybook appearance. The steep streets are also paved in characteristic patterns, the stones worn slick with time (see Erice).
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The Romans began deforestation of the island to export timber and make way for wheat plantations. Sicily is now virtually treeless and the earth is easily washed away in heavy rains.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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