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Sicily : Overview & Top 10

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Sicily

The island of Sicily is Italy’s largest region and is also its most varied. In terms of geography, there are offshore islands, endless coastline, rugged mountains, rolling wheatfields and volcanos, but its history and architecture are also of note. Sicily formed a significant portion of the Greek empire, was strategically vital to Rome, and was invaded in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish and Bourbons, before unifying with Italy. Each conquest left its mark, to create a palimpsest of cultures on the island.

  • This pensione in Cefalù’s historic centre has undergone a major renovation. Rooms are equipped with TVs and air conditioning, and some have a terrace with a view down the narrow streets and to the sea.

  • A local favourite, with an outdoor terrace in summer. Local cheeses, meats and vegetables and live music and dancing on Saturday and Sunday nights.

  • An actual grotto, this tiny restaurant is a favourite of locals, who proclaim the excellence of the fish.

  • The Arabs established their government in this area and its narrow, winding streets later became a densely populated residential district. Sadly, it was heavily bombed during World War II and few of the buildings have been restored, yet their crumbling state seems to add to the atmosphere in this bustling part of the city. Highlights include the Baroque Santa Teresa, the Santa Maria dello Spasimo dating from 1506, the restored 1151 Norman church of La Magione, later headquarters of the Teutonic knights, and the Catalan-Gothic Palazzo Aiutamicristo. Sicilians are ever resourceful and today many of the ruined buildings are being used inventively as restaurants and galleries. Stay alert if you’re wandering this area at night.

  • La Martorana and San Cataldo

    In Piazza Bellini are two splendid churches. The little, mid-12th-century San Cataldo has three Arabic bulbous red domes all in a row, latticed windows and an elegantly bare interior. But it is the Santa Maria dell’ Ammiraglio next door that is the real gem. It was later renamed La Martorana after the Spanish patron who established a convent nearby. Notice the Norman bell tower (c.1140), now missing its red dome, which is just as dramatic as the Baroque façade added in the 16th century. Inside, ignore the later paintings in favour of the original mosaic decoration by skilled Byzantine craftsmen. Just inside the door, an image of King Roger, feet firmly on the ground, is shown being crowned by Christ, hovering in his ethereal realm (see La Martorana, Palermo).

  • The only original part of the exterior of this 1143 Norman masterpiece is its splendid bell tower, now minus its red dome. The original façade prompted an Arab traveller of 1184 to proclaim it the most magnificent building ever seen, so much so he hoped it would become a mosque. It never did (see La Martorana and San Cataldo).

  • Expertly prepared, extremely fresh fish served on the beach under torchlight.

  • Visconti’s 1948 adaptation of Verga’s I Malavoglia , the story of a fisherman’s failed dream of independence.

  • A deep natural lake south of Enna is the supposed site of the passage from Earth to the Underworld.

  • The tiny islet Isola dei Conigli, off Lampedusa, and the bay in between have been set apart as a nature reserve for sea turtles who lay their eggs on the beach. The water is clean and shallow in the bay and the sands are white but there are no facilities so bring your own supplies.

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