The island of Sicily is Italy’s largest region and is also its most varied. In terms of geography, there are offshore islands, endless coastline, rugged mountains, rolling wheatfields and volcanos, but its history and architecture are also of note. Sicily formed a significant portion of the Greek empire, was strategically vital to Rome, and was invaded in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish and Bourbons, before unifying with Italy. Each conquest left its mark, to create a palimpsest of cultures on the island.
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The rooms in this small pensione on Selinunte’s promenade are clean, cheerfully decorated and serviceable, some with terraces. There’s a front porch for sitting out to watch the passeggiata , and a discount on meals at the owners’ restaurant across the street.
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The open nave of Santa Maria dello Spasimo alla Kalsa, a former church, is a romantic venue for performances and film. Music can be heard from the upper outdoor terrace as well, while artworks are on display in the covered exhibition space. It is an innovative and resourceful use for one of Palermo’s damaged historic buildings and one of the first venues to start the revival of the Kalsa neighbourhood (see Santa Maria dello Spasimo).
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Sicily’s first nature reserve was instituted in 1980 to protect 7 km (4 miles) of rocky coastline on the Tyrrhenian Sea between Scopello and San Vito lo Capo. Marked trails of various levels of difficulty traverse the steep interior, or creep along the cliff above the sea, occasionally forking down to small coves with pebble beaches. The reserve protects flora and fauna such as wild orchids, limonium, wild carnations, dwarf palms, iris, remains of once widespread ilex and cork-oak forests, lichens and ferns, Bonelli’s eagles, Peregrine falcons, Sicilian warblers, owls, porcupines and foxes.
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The Locanda has accurately restored a few rooms of the local prince’s castle in this tiny village. They also authentically follow traditional methods in the kitchen. Dishes are innovative mixes of inland vegetables with fish from the nearby sea, each prepared to achieve a harmony of freshness, flavour and texture. Try the cuccìa (cracked wheat, white cabbage and sea snails) or pistachio ravioli with crustaceans and cacao beans (see Locanda del Borgo, Rosolini).
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In a restored castle with original frescoes and red drapery, traditional techniques are revisited to create innovative dishes (see Locanda del Borgo, Rosolini).
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Born at Caos near Agrigento, Pirandello (1867–1936) is known as the founder of 20th-century drama. His best-known work is the play Six Characters in Search of an Author (1921).
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A small hotel in the heart of Ortygia island, in Syracuse. Rooms are spacious and nicely decorated, some with terraces. Parking is available.
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Small, four-room pensione in the heart of Noto’s historic centre, in a private courtyard (you enter through an arch, hence the name). Great location, serviceable rooms and helpful staff.
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The Madonie range, featuring Sicily’s highest peaks after Mount Etna, extends from Cefalù inland and is protected by the Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie. The park encompasses spectacular countryside, forests of beech, chestnuts, cork oaks, poplars and fir, and tiny villages that time seems to have forgotten. The remote villages that once provided refuge to bandits on the run are now good starting points for mountain hikes, horseback riding, cycling and skiing (see Outdoor Activities).
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More than 350 mafiosi were convicted during the late 1980s, as a result of which the judges Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino were murdered in 1992. “Boss of Bosses” Salvatore “Totò” Riina was finally convicted of arranging the murders.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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