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To the northwest of Noto lie the evocative ruins of the pre-earthquake town. Built on an arid, limestone ridge, the site commands views of the Ragusan plain and Mount Etna. Under the hot Sicilian sun, purple thistle and sundried herbs perfume the air.

This little mountain village is tucked away between the Peloritani and Nebrodi mountain ranges. The medieval site has a crumbling Arab castle and the 16th-century Chiesa Madrice with naïve wood carvings on the altar.

Part of the Sole hotel chain, in an excellent location in Trapani’s historic centre. The hotel resembles a grand-mother’s living room despite a recent make-over. Rooms are serviceable and clean. Reserve a parking space in their tiny garage for a small fee. They usually encourage you to go out for breakfast, which is a joy in lively Trapani.

The Greek military leader wandered the Mediterranean for 10 years trying to get home. Many of his adventures took place on Sicily.

On 11 November, St Martin’s Day, families celebrate their new, thick, spicy, green olive oil by sampling it on i muffuletti , round sandwich loaves baked with fennel seeds and dressed with salt and oil. If they don’t have their own olive trees, families obtain a year’s supply of olive oil from a relative or another trusted source, making sure to have a full giara , a waist-high terracotta storage jar.

Millions of olive trees produce excellent quality table olives and thick, green aromatic olive oil.

Built in the 6th century BC and set amid cypress trees, two of the temple’s 42 columns remain standing.

The interior of this chapel is covered with stucco decoration and Giacomo Serpotta’s masterpiece of Biblical and historical scenes (c.1600).