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There were puppeteers in ancient Syracuse, but the opera dei pupi as we know it today really became popular in the 1800s. Puppet theatres provided nightly entertainment for thousands of Sicilians – Palermo had more than 25 theatres where full houses would watch the good guys fight the bad guys in stories of adventure and romance, chivalry and treachery. Travelling puppet theatres drew huge crowds in smaller villages.

The tiny island is a bustling mix of temples, churches, museums, open piazzas, seaside bars, markets and shops.

With sweeping views to the Golfo di Castellammare and Erice, an obelisk commemorates Garibaldi’s defeat of Bourbon forces in May 1860 (see Giuseppe Garibaldi). The victory allowed him to take Palermo, then all of Sicily, and eventually led to the Unification of Italy.

A large hostel on the slopes of Mount Etna, at 700 m (2,300 ft) above sea level. There are 70 beds, a number of small bathrooms and special rooms for families. Also a restaurant and bar.

Located about 4 km (2.5 miles) from Trapani at the beginning of the steep hill up to Erice. It is a new, rather institutional hostel but with helpful staff; 52 rooms, small bathrooms, a restaurant, and a view out over the Egadi Islands.

This small hostel has a planted terrace with sea views, 20 beds in regular and family rooms, kitchen facilities, bar and restaurant.

This osteria near the fish market sells a selection of each day’s catch. Try the marinated anchovies.

Given its long history of invasion (see Vestiges of Invading Powers), Sicily has always been a cosmopolitan island, and nowhere more so than in its capital. Palermo is home to places of worship for a number for faiths, including a mosque – a clear remnant of its former Arab inhabitants.