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A warren of little streets lies northeast of the Quattro Canti, home to the Vucciria market (see Vucciria, Palermo). Bordering the market to the north is the Church of San Domenico, burial place of notable Sicilians (see San Domenico, Palermo). Rebuilt in the Baroque style in 1640, the harmonious yellow-and-white façade is 18th century. Behind the church is a Baroque chapel, the Oratorio del Rosario di San Domenico, with an altarpiece by Anthony Van Dyck.

Built as a monastery in the 1400s, the structure now houses 100 rooms. In beautiful grounds, the San Domenico offers views of the bay and Mount Etna, tennis courts, a pool and gym.

The “Pantheon” of Palermo is so-called because Sicily’s most illustrious citizens are buried here. Among them are the physicist Stanislao Cannizzaro, the parliamentarian Ruggero Settimo, the painter Pietro Novelli, and other members of the nobility (see San Domenico Church and Oratory of San Domenico and the Vucciria).

Ragusa’s cathedral is built on a rise in a wide tree-lined piazza in the heart of the old town. The convex and undulating façade is typical of the architect Gagliardi, supporting a soaring central tower, bulging columns and swirly volutes.

St Joseph’s Day is celebrated fervently in the west, especially in villages such as Salemi and Poggioreale. Altars are constructed in homes, schools and public spaces, piled high with ornate breads and traditional foods – but no meat, out of respect for St Joseph’s poverty.

Rivals for centuries, the landowners and farmers loyal to San Paolo and the artisans and merchants loyal to San Sebastiano try to out-celebrate each other. Huge statues of the saints make an entrance from the church into the piazza where they are met with brightly coloured streamers, then journey through the village. Worshippers process barefoot well into the night.

On this dramatic promontory on the northwestern tip of Sicily is a resort with a long sandy beach and a promenade action-packed in summer.

The seat of the cult of Demeter and Persephone was at Enna on the boulder behind the castle. Their temple contained a statue of the Mother Goddess.

Demeter and Persephone were worshipped as the protec-tresses of Morgantina. In the sanctuary see purification baths, altars for performing rituals and a well for sacred offerings.