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Sicily : Editor's choice

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  • A cheese by-product used for sweet and savoury dishes. Available fresh, baked, or salted and aged (ricotta salata ).

  • Rice dishes are as plentiful as pasta, and are particularly good with Sicilian lemons, nero di sepia (cuttlefish ink), greens or prawns. A real treat is the elaborate Rippiddu Annivicatu : rice is blackened with squid ink and shaped in a mound to resemble Mount Etna, a topping of ricotta cheese evokes the snowcap, and tomatoes the flames and lava flows.

  • Exceptional sea salt is produced here using 16th-century windmills. The Museo del Sale explains production.

  • Richly flavoured salt has been harvested from the sea near Trapani since Phoenician times (see Saline, Salt Pans).

  • On this dramatic promontory on the northwestern tip of Sicily is a resort with a long sandy beach and a promenade action-packed in summer.

  • This splendid 12th-century Christian chapel mixes European, Arab and Norman styles.

  • Everybody checks out everybody else for everything from physical attributes, to fashion sense, to well-behaved children.

  • Many small producers are making excellent wines. Look out for Fondo Antico, Cusumano, Racalmare di Morgante, Rudinì and Calabretta, among others.

  • The Greek village of Solus was built on a grid plan in the 4th century BC, high above the sea. Lacking natural springs, it had a highly developed water conservation method. Among the ruins find cisterns, channels and pools.

  • Feel free to sit and watch the passeggiata go by, but sit side by side facing the action.

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