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Natural sulphur deposits from Agrigento to Caltanissetta were exploited by the owners of latifondi (large farms) underneath whose land the deposits lay. Sicilian sulphur mining was infamously inefficient, using child labour, primitive extraction and mules until well into the 20th century, thereby selling sulphur at double the market price.

Cities and provinces organize great events to entertain tourists and locals all summer long. Ask at the local tourist offices or try to visit some of the following: Inykon at Menfi, with local foods, dancing, music and performances in the piazza in early June; Marsala Doc Jazz festival with wine and music in July; Estate Insieme with outdoor films and shows in Marsala in August; Sikula Reggae Festival at Rosolini in mid-August; and Palermo Summer Festival at the Fiera del Mediterraneo.

The wealthy families of Modica built elaborate summer homes in the countryside. Drives lead to walled villas with grand façades, courtyards and elegant gardens.

University students crowd both storeys of this pub/pizzeria and the seats outside in summer. It’s near the Piazza dell’Università, an area that has been overhauled in the last few years thanks to the attentions of a progressive mayor. In the heart of the centre, from Piazza dell’Universitàto Piazza Bellini, there are literally hundreds of pubs and bars.

The passeggiata can be an afternoon or an evening activity. Join the crowds on the promenades at Selinunte, San Vito lo Capo, Mondello, Marina di Ragusa – or indeed anywhere a group might get together.

Everyone holds hands or entwines arms with their walking partners.

The key to the walk on the passeggiata is to do it very slowly.

You’ll find this fish in every form: fresh, preserved in oil, and in a variety of cuts.

Amazing bounty awaits at marketplaces and restaurants. Don’t miss the long skinny cucuzza (squash) and spicy red garlic.