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Excellent lemons (there is a small, sweet variety) and oranges (with numerous blood-red varieties) abound.

In and around Corleone, several co-operatives under the umbrella Libera Terra cultivate land confiscated from mafia bosses to create jobs and strengthen the economy of the area. Wheat is grown for pasta, grapes for wine, as well as fruits, cheeses and honey.

Traditional fig-filled biscuits that exist under various names in every part of the island. Elaborate versions are made for St Joseph’s Day (see San Giuseppe, Belice Valley) and called squartucciati .

In 1954 crude oil was discovered off the coast of Gela. An offshore platform, port and jetty were built, and within a decade Gela was equipped with a petro-chemical plant for refining domestic and imported oil.

This natural quarry for Selinunte is located amid olive trees, with blocks of tufa and partially extracted columns. Slaves would have hauled columns 9 km (6 miles) to Selinunte.

Discoteche open up each summer, often under new names and management. Huge crowds of visitors mix with locals who come from miles around to fill up the open-air dance floors and bars and the occasional billiard room. Look for posters for clubs in places such as Palermo, Marsala and Marzamemi.

Elvira Roccasalva has a passion for traditional recipes, faithfully reproducing by hand the sweets formerly made by Modica’s cloistered nuns. She also uses the best-quality ingredients from the region to create her own recipes: try the carato , made with carob flour, raisins and almonds.

The secret behind Sicily’s flavourful bread and pasta. The countryside is covered with wheat fields.

Sicily’s first DOC was awarded in 1968 to the southern and eastern zone of Mount Etna where the white grapes Cataratto and Carricante flourish. Reds, mostly the Nerello Mascalese, grow around the volcano’s base.

Large fava beans are cultivated in the countryside near Enna. They are eaten dressed with olive oil or used in soups.