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Good swimming abounds in the Aeolians – the water is clear and rich in marine life.

The round-topped Rocca di Nadore above Sciacca turns its flat, white face towards the sea and dominates the coast for miles. See it looming on the horizon as far away as Selinunte.

Agrigento’s temples are even more romantic at night. You can see them from any vantage point but perhaps the finest view is from the terrace at Il Dehors (see Il Déhors de l’Hotel Foresteria Baglio della Luna, Agrigento), enjoying an excellent meal with the Temple of Concord as backdrop (see Agrigento and the Valle dei Templi).

The hearty, spiky plant pops up along roadsides and in fields with its bright purple flowers – not to be confused with cultivated artichokes.

The enormous vallate (valleys) around Enna are planted with wheat, and the spectacular stretches of soft fields change colour with the seasons, from lush green, to golden yellow, to black.

A spectacular nature reserve with sandy beaches set around a 15th-century Aragonese tower. The pristine coast here offers a peaceful, natural experience. The park is covered with Mediterranean maquis, and its wetland habitat provides a resting stop for birds migrating to and from Africa.

From the Piazza Cripsi see across the deep valley to Calascibetta on the flat top of its own terraced hill, and across the interior all the way to Mount Etna.

Below the promontory, from Capo Tindari towards Oliveri and Falcone, the Tindari-Oliveri reserve is good for a quiet walk along the sand formations and lakes with blue-green water.

Diving and snorkelling are available with trained guides through diving centres in Scopello and the Aeolian Islands, or snorkel on your own, taking advantage of the marine life along Sicily’s shores. Beaches in more touristy areas rent pedal boats and windsurfing boards.