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Ragusa was founded as Hybla Heraia by Siculi peoples fleeing inland to escape the Greeks. After the earthquake of 1693, half the population chose to rebuild on the ridge above, (Ragusa) while the other half chose to renovate the old village, (Ragusa Ibla). Ibla makes an immediate impression with its little terracotta roof-tiled buildings clinging dramatically to the side of a cliff. The Duomo is at the heart of town, sited on a rise to emphasize its great height. A Gagliardi masterpiece of 1744, the façade is articulated with a pulsating entablature, bulging columns and swirling volutes pushing upwards toward the tall central bell tower. The oval-shaped cathedral of San Giuseppe presents another projecting Baroque façade. Also not to be missed is the surviving portal of the pre-quake cathedral, Catalan-Gothic in style and with a delicately carved St George slaying the dragon.

A warren of little streets lies northeast of the Quattro Canti, home to the Vucciria market (see Vucciria, Palermo). Bordering the market to the north is the Church of San Domenico, burial place of notable Sicilians (see San Domenico, Palermo). Rebuilt in the Baroque style in 1640, the harmonious yellow-and-white façade is 18th century. Behind the church is a Baroque chapel, the Oratorio del Rosario di San Domenico, with an altarpiece by Anthony Van Dyck.

Dominated by Monte San Calogero and built on a terrace over the sea, this was the thermal spa town for Selinunte and still has a spa offering restorative sulphur and mud baths. The small port town has an interesting harbour choked with little blue-and-white boats, a thriving ceramics tradition and a good mix of old and new. See the Porta San Salvatore (1581) carved by local artisans with carpet-like decorative reliefs, and the Catalan-Gothic Palazzo Steripinto with its diamond-shaped rustication. Then walk the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza A Scandaliato for views down to the port, then on to the Duomo for its Baroque façade with Gagini sculptures.

Rebuilt after the earthquake of 1693, Scicli combines open, tree-lined piazzas, swirling Baroque façades and older structures with terracotta tiled roofs.

Dominated by a high, rocky cliff, Scicli was an outpost of the Spanish barons during their long reign over the County of Modica. From the wide Piazza Italia, the via Nazionale leads up to the west, passing the side street where the Palazzo Beneventano sits on a corner, its sculptural decoration now weathered by the elements. Via Nazionale continues to the pleasant Piazza Busacca with views down into the older, residential section of town with its narrow lanes and crumbling terracotta roofs.

This small village of fishermen was almost inaccessible until recent years when the road was built from Castellammare. Now the village is experiencing something of a tourist boom, but retains the charm of a tiny fishing hamlet, and you’ll still see an old mariner with nets stretched the length of the piazza, repairing the gaps with an enormous needle.

The most romantic ruins in all of Sicily are tucked between the green hills and rugged mountains just west of Calatafimi. The temple was built in perfect, solid Doric proportions (c.420 BC) and stands isolated on a gentle slope, turning a beautiful shade of pink in the sunset. The un-grooved columns, missing cella , and still-attached studs around the stylobate hint that it was left unfinished. The theatre, high up on Monte Barbaro, has views out to Trapani and the sea and is still used for performances (see Teatro Antica di Segesta).

The ruins of this Greek city, including temples, walls, marketplace and homes, stand majestically backed by the sea – silent reminders of the glory of the once great city (see Selinunte).

On the upland plain around Ragusa and Modica the soil is marked with white stone outcroppings and gorges, while on the lowland plain around Vittoria, the tufa lies almost 1 m (3 ft) below the surface and is topped with a layer of red soil that supports bright green grapevines. Pastures criss-crossed with walls are marked by stone masserie (farmer’s homes). The farmer (massaro ) works the fields, raises livestock and produces grain, olive oil and milk for the local caciocavallo Ragusano cheese.

The narrow strait between Messina and Reggio di Calabria was supposedly guarded by Scylla and Charybdis, the mythical sea creatures who led sailors astray. A proposed suspension bridge linking Sicily and mainland Italy has been under debate for more than 30 years. Sicilians are split between those who believe a link to the mainland would open up Sicily to much-needed economic development, and those who fear a loss of their insularity, and thus autonomy. Many suggest that the island infrastructure should be addressed first – much of Sicily still lacks basic necessities such as decent roads and water and electricity supplies.