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Start your walk at Piazza Garibaldi, beginning at Corso Ruggiero, where the church of Santa Maria della Catena is built on top of the 5th-century BC town walls. Walking down the Corso, on the left at the corner of via Amendola is one of the only extant parts of Norman Cefalù, besides the cathedral, the Palazzo Osterio Magno. Pass the flower-filled piazzetta in front of the Chiesa del Purgatorio on your way to Piazza Duomo, which opens up to the right. Inside the cathedral (see Cathedral, Cefalù) admire the mosaics, but don’t miss the exterior view of the apse around the back. Sit out in the piazza at Bar Duomo with a cappuccino and enjoy the cathedral façade and the church bells marking the hour.
Continue down the Corso to the end, take a left on via Bordonaro and a right into Piazza Crispi with views of the Greek walls later absorbed by Spanish fortifications. Follow via Bordonaro down to Piazza Marina with the small port below. Off to the left, down the via Vittorio Emanuele, a staircase leads to lavatoi (washbasins), the sole remnant of Arab domination.
Before lunch, enjoy a wander around the “real” Cefalù, where fishermen repair boats and women pause from their laundry to chat.
Have lunch in the garden at L’Antica Corte (Cortile Pepe 7 0921 423 228) or pick up picnic supplies from Alimentari e Salumeria Gatta Gaetano (Corso Ruggero 152).
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