The northeast of Sicily can’t help but be dominated by Mount Etna, although the region also consists of three mountain ranges, a group of islands with another active volcano, and two of Sicily’s largest cities. Parts of this area have been devastated by wars, earthquakes, tidal waves and lava flows, but the land and the people that live on it come back after each ordeal, heartier and more steadfast. Perhaps that is why people here celebrate feast days of their patron saints with so much fervour. High up in the hills and peaks of the Nebrodi and Madonie mountains, it often seems like nothing has changed for eons – the same castles that safeguarded the royal passageways of the interior now stand guard over modern autostrada.
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An actual grotto, this tiny restaurant is a favourite of locals, who proclaim the excellence of the fish.
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The proprietor of this jewellery store in Taormina creates pieces from old stones, inspired by historical motifs; she also works on commission if you create your own design.
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This popular and friendly trattoria is run by two brothers (not sisters, as the name suggests). The menu changes regularly and there is a good wine list.
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The Madonie range, featuring Sicily’s highest peaks after Mount Etna, extends from Cefalù inland and is protected by the Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie. The park encompasses spectacular countryside, forests of beech, chestnuts, cork oaks, poplars and fir, and tiny villages that time seems to have forgotten. The remote villages that once provided refuge to bandits on the run are now good starting points for mountain hikes, horseback riding, cycling and skiing (see Outdoor Activities).
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Small street markets spring up in villages on Mount Etna’s slopes. Local farmers offer their produce for sale from their cars and three-wheeled pick-up trucks, many near Fleri, between Viagrande and Santa Venerina.
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Founded by colonists from Messenia, Greece, the city grew up around the harbour, which has always been its focus. In 1908 Messina was levelled by a disastrous earthquake and tidal wave, although parts of the older city survive. Monuments are concentrated around the magnificent harbour, including the Norman Duomo with original portals and sculpture, a 15th-century fountain in the Piazza Duomo and a clock tower whose mechanized figures come to life at noon, the Santissima Annunziata dei Catalani with its Norman features, the 1572 monument to Don Giovanni of Austria, and the Museo Regionale, with important works by Antonello da Messina (see Antonello da Messina) and Caravaggio.
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Europe’s largest active volcano dominates Sicily – from much of the island it is rarely out of sight and never out of mind (see Mount Etna).
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The best in lava kitsch can be had at the base of Etna Sud or Etna Nord. Ashtrays, mini statues of San Pio, turtles – you name it, it has been moulded from molten lava and dipped in blue glitter. There are also more subdued trinkets, literature and videos of eruptions.
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This osteria near the fish market sells a selection of each day’s catch. Try the marinated anchovies.
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Here you’ll find the top names in classic Italian high fashion, including Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Ferre and Armani.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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