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In this former Benedictine monastery, set deep within the Madonie Park, you can sample savoury mountain specialities made with local rabbit, lamb and pork, served with fresh vegetables from the proprietors’ farm.

This tiny trattoria near the port has a bright blue façade and pavement tables. The owner is a grandmother who has been preparing the menu of fresh fish and other Aeolian Island favourites for more than 40 years.

This terraced pizzeria has wonderful views.

There are about 10 ski runs on Etna. Lift tickets and equipment rentals are available.

The narrow strait between Messina and Reggio di Calabria was supposedly guarded by Scylla and Charybdis, the mythical sea creatures who led sailors astray. A proposed suspension bridge linking Sicily and mainland Italy has been under debate for more than 30 years. Sicilians are split between those who believe a link to the mainland would open up Sicily to much-needed economic development, and those who fear a loss of their insularity, and thus autonomy. Many suggest that the island infrastructure should be addressed first – much of Sicily still lacks basic necessities such as decent roads and water and electricity supplies.

Good swimming abounds in the Aeolians – the water is clear and rich in marine life.

The extensive ruins of ancient Tyndaris, first Greek and then Roman, lie to either side of the Decumanus Maximus, the main street. Homes show mosaic flooring, drainage and the remains of heating systems. A restored basilica with graceful arches spans the street where it marked the entrance into the public area. A theatre, built by the Greeks, modified by the Romans and still in use, was sited to take advantage of the view out to sea. A small museum houses finds from the site including a colossal head of Augustus. Nearby visit the sanctuary of the Black Madonna, a pilgrimage favourite.

Good Aeolian cuisine is served on a dockside terrace at Gelso, with views all the way to Mount Etna.

This district is famed for big-name Italian stores such as Max Mara, Benetton, Rinascente, Frette, as well as inviting pastry shops and cafés. Emporio Armani and other designer boutiques continue on the Corso Italia.