Far from the developed resorts of the East Coast , much of this area was remote until relatively recently and presents unique opportunities to wander through fishing villages, watch shepherds at work and witness a way life that has survived for centuries. The coastal areas and offshore islands are pristine, while the mountainous interior, part rocky, part arable, has some of the harshest terrain in Sicily – water is scarce, the heat relentless and earthquakes are not infrequent. The villages of the interior lost large percentages of their population to mass emigration over the last century (see Emigration) but those who remain are largely small farmers still using mules to work their fields, or younger generations turning their talents towards developing vineyards of local grapes to produce high-quality Sicilian wines.
Try Francesco Adamo’s hard candies in Trapani. His is the little unnamed white booth on Piazza Notai. Take advantage of free bikes in Marsala, contact the tourist office for details: tel. 0923 71 40 97. Check hydrofoil schedules carefully; don’t get stranded.-
Morning
Start the day with a visit to Trapani’s market in Piazza Mercato del Pesce. Well-stocked vendors are anxious to offer tastes of cheeses, olives and tuna. Pick out a few things for a picnic, then stop at the bakery on the corner of the piazza and via Torrearsa to round out your goodies with a pane conzatu , the sandwich you see the fishermen eating for breakfast. Walk down Via Torrearsa and pass under the arch into via delle Arti where Colicchia makes the best cannoli in Sicily (see Cassata and Cannoli).
Follow via delle Arti to the piazzetta della Cuba and then via della Cuba down to piazza Notai. Take a look at Sant’Agostino church with its 14th-century rose window, before passing through the arch and back onto via Torrearsa. Going down Corso Vittorio Emanuele crane your neck to see the green majolica domes of San Lorenzo Cathedral, before reaching the end of the peninsula to enjoy your lunch and the sea views.
Afternoon
If you haven’t spent all day shopping in Trapani, spend the afternoon up in Erice, with its good picnic sites and superb views. Or take the hydrofoil to the Egadi Island of Favignana.
Make it back to Trapani in time for the sunset to take part in the local passeggiata , then enjoy a wonderful traditional dinner at Ai Lumi Tavernetta .
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A nice selection of Sicilian treats and wines – but they don’t come cheap.
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A vaulted interior, tapestry placemats, modern paintings and antique implements. The menu has a few chosen Trapanese dishes and fresh fish (see Ai Lumi Tavernetta, Trapani).
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This small village has a 14th-century castle of the Spanish Counts of Modica, who once ruled much of the region. It is best known for Bianco d’Alcamo, a white wine with DOC protection.
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In this unusual grocer’s there is a wide selection of prepared foods, cheeses and vegetables, and a great choice of wines.
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Since 1882 Altieri has been producing their own uniquely designed pieces in gold, coral and ceramics.
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This village east of Palermo is now rather built up, but you can still see the elaborate Baroque villas built by Palermo’s nobility, when it was all citrus groves and orchards.
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Long sandy beaches line the western coast of Sicily, reaching up to the huge stretch of sand at San Vito Lo Capo. Pebble beaches are found to the northwest, on the coast of the Golfo di Castellammare.
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Near its mouth the wide, fertile Belice Valley is long, low, flat, and very good for farming; it’s covered with a patchwork quilt of wine vineyards, olive groves, melon vines and citrus fruit trees. It is traversed by a typical Sicilian highway, raised on tall stilts.
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Inside the Florio institution is a nice store and a wine museum with a selection of antique tools used for wine-making.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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