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From via Maqueda take the Piazza Santa Quaranta Martiri up to the Chiesa del Gesù for a look at the wild Baroque decoration of the interior. Beyond the church, enter the streets taken over by Ballarò market (see Ballerò, Palermo) and spend some time weaving your way through the overloaded stalls. For a late breakfast stop at one of the stalls serving arancini (see Arancini) or fried aubergine (eggplant) sandwiches.
From Piazza Ballarò, pass through the old neighbourhood and by the Church of the Carmine with its colourful dome and take the via Case Nuove to via Maqueda. Head into La Kalsa on via Gorizia to via Garibaldi 43, where you can still see parts of the magnificent original structure of the Palazzo Aiutamicristo. Continue down to Santa Maria dello Spasimo where there may be contemporary art on view. Take the residential via della Vetreria to via Alloro, and tour the regional fine arts museum in Palazzo Abatellis.
Exit the museum and go south on via Alloro until the Piazza d’Aragona and take a right into via A. Paternostro to the Piazza San Francesco. Have lunch at the Antica Focacceria (see Antica Focacceria), sitting in the piazza under the Gothic façade of San Francesco, or in the marble and wrought-iron interior, where you can watch the chefs serving up Sicilian specialities. For dessert, there’s always good gelato to be found in the shop in the piazza.
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