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Lucy Tagg's Sicily guide

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by Lucy Tagg.
Taormina

As Sicily’s first resort and an obligatory stop on the Grand Tour, Taormina has welcomed visitors for centuries. The town, draped with bougainvillea, offers breathtaking views, an ancient theatre, and cafés and terraces overlooking the sea (see Taormina).

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Mount Etna

This, the largest and most active volcano in Europe, has been threatening the island since before records began. Its awesome presence dominates eastern Sicily (see Mount Etna).

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Syracuse

The once mighty Greek colony and rival to Athens quietly exists today as a thriving modern city endowed with vestiges of its former glory (see Syracuse).

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Noto

Destroyed by an earthquake in 1693, Noto was rebuilt during the 1700s when the Baroque style was at its height. A unified building programme creates harmony between landscape and village (see Noto).

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Villa Romana del Casale

The extensive mosaic decorations of this luxurious Roman hunting villa are the best preserved of their kind in the world (see Villa Romana del Casale).

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Caltagirone

Named after the Arabic Cal’at Ghiran (Castle of Vases), ceramic production has been the main industry in this town since prehistoric times, a tradition documented at the local Museo della Ceramica. The Baroque town built onto a steep hillside is a pleasure to wander through, with characteristic alleyways, cafés and ceramics shops. A stairway leads from the lower town up to the church of Santa Maria del Monte, and each of the 142 steps is decorated with majolica tiles.

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Castello di Eurialo

This Greek military castle was built in 402 BC and is notable for its 15-m (50-ft) keep. Spectacular views of the coastline can be had from its fortifications (see Castello di Eurialo).

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Villa Rizzone, Modica

This Neo-Classical 19th-century villa has an open courtyard planted with palms, while the interior is painted in blue and gold.

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Modica

Rebuilt after 1693, on and between two deep gorges, the city is dramatically divided in two parts – Modica Alta, the upper town, and Modica Bassa, the lower town. Founded by the Siculi, the city attained great importance under Spanish rule when it was the capital of a quasi-autonomous state ruled by Spanish barons. The lively Corso Umberto I, with boutiques, cafés, pastry shops, numerous palaces and a theatre, crosses Modica Bassa. Also on this street is a monumental flight of steps with excellent Baroque statues of the Apostles that leads up to the post-1693 Duomo dedicated to San Pietro. Up the hill, Modica Alta’s Baroque church of San Giorgio is attributed to Gagliardi. Inside there is characteristic stucco work and 10 beautiful 16th-century wooden panels depicting scenes from the New Testament.

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A Day in Modica and Ragusa Ibla
Morning

Spend a morning in Modica , stopping by the church of San Giorgio of Modica Alta on your way into town. In Modica Bassa, visit the Museo Iblea delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari SA Guastella (see Museo Iblea delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari SA Guastella, Modica) with its excellent collection displayed in recreated homes and craftsmen’s workshops. Walk down the Corso Umberto I towards the Duomo, passing cafés, shops and buildings that incorporate parts of pre-earthquake structures. At Corso Umberto I, 156, visit the biscottificio of Donna Elvira Roccasalva for a taste of Modica’s traditional sweets.

Drive along the SS 115 to Ragusa Ibla crossing one of the tallest viaducts in Europe into a fertile land of citrus groves and carob trees. In via Capitano Bocchieri pick up a map of the maze-like streets from the information office. Next door, have lunch at Ristorante Duomo .

Afternoon

Spend the afternoon wandering through Ragusa Ibla to see the Duomo, San Giuseppe and San Giorgio Vecchio. You can study the Baroque façade of the Duomo from under the trees in the lively piazza with a treat from Gelati DiVini (Piazza Duomo 20) – their ice cream is made from Sicilian wines. But don’t fail to walk through the narrow side streets where tiny alleys are connected with staircases and tunnels, for a taste of authentic Ibla.

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Cave d’Ispica

An ancient river carved out this gorge, which is now an open-air park with good walks and climbs. The cliff sides are hollowed out to form ancient tombs of religious hermits; in one cave is a Byzantine fresco of the Madonna.

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Ciane River

The river’s source is a pool formed by the tears of Cyane, who tried to prevent Persephone’s abduction into the underworld. The river banks are thick with papyrus. Take a boat tour past the Olympieion.

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Summer Houses of the Nobility

The wealthy families of Modica built elaborate summer homes in the countryside. Drives lead to walled villas with grand façades, courtyards and elegant gardens.

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Vendicari

The reserve’s maquis supports thyme, rosemary and juniper; the wetlands host migratory birds. Depending on the season, watch for herons, egrets and flamingoes.

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Olympieion

Built in the 6th century BC and set amid cypress trees, two of the temple’s 42 columns remain standing.

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Eremo della Giubiliana, Ragusa Ibla

Traditional Ragusan recipes are prepared with vegetables from the estate’s garden, and bread and pasta from their own wheat.

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Gargantua, Modica

Only five tables in a barrel-vaulted space in old Modica, where the chef prepares local, seasonal foods.

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Ristorante Duomo, Ragusa Ibla

Ciccio Sultano expertly chooses and prepares local ingredients. The food is outstanding, served in an elegant dining room (see Ristorante Duomo, Ragusa).

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Don Camillo, Syracuse

Typical Syracusan dishes served in a pretty interior with arched brick ceilings.

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Pasticcerie and Gelaterie

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Gelato

What makes Sicilian ice cream (gelato ) so special is its base: a crema developed from Arab and Spanish culinary influences made with milk, or almond milk, and starch. It produces a rich, smooth and light dessert (see Northeast Sicily).

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Fish and Seafood

There is always an excellent choice of fish and seafood in Sicily. Look out for soglia (flounder), triglie (red mullet), pesce spada (swordfish), tonno (tuna), mazzancolla (large sweet prawns), aragosta (spiny lobster), sarde (sardines), polpo (octopus), calamaro (squid) and gambero rosso (red prawns).

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Pasticceria Russo, near Catania

Since 1880 the Russo family has been producing Catanese pastries using the finest of local ingredients, including pistachios, almonds, oranges and honey.

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