The landscape of the southeast is markedly different from the rest of the island, with its strata of white limestone supporting scrubland vegetation, steep gorges formed by ancient river courses, and characteristic low, dry-stone walls marking the boundaries of fertile fields. Yet this small corner of Sicily is rich in sights. Unmissable are the Greek and Roman remains at Syracuse, the most important city of Magna Graecia, while Caltagirone, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, Ragusa and Scicli have all recently been declared World Heritage Sites on the merits of their Baroque architecture and innovative urban planning, the result of the rebuilding effort after the destruction of the 1693 earthquake. Of equal enjoyment is the current gastronomic renaissance taking place in the area, rediscovering both the seafood from the coastal zones and the meats, cheeses and wild greens of the interior. Young chefs, aware that old traditions, methods and even ingredients are on the brink of extinction, are returning to their roots and working hard to revitalize and preserve the authentic cuisine of the region.
In Scicli have a coffee on the terrace at Pura Follia on Via Nazionale, looking out at the tiled rooftops of the old village.-
The day labourer’s house is a poorly furnished space of 12 sq m (130 sq ft). It was inhabited by six people until the 1960s, illustrating social conditions of the Sicilian countryside.
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The peasant farmer’s home has a kitchen complete with wood-burning stove.
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Morning
Spend a morning in Modica , stopping by the church of San Giorgio of Modica Alta on your way into town. In Modica Bassa, visit the Museo Iblea delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari SA Guastella (see Museo Iblea delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari SA Guastella, Modica) with its excellent collection displayed in recreated homes and craftsmen’s workshops. Walk down the Corso Umberto I towards the Duomo, passing cafés, shops and buildings that incorporate parts of pre-earthquake structures. At Corso Umberto I, 156, visit the biscottificio of Donna Elvira Roccasalva for a taste of Modica’s traditional sweets.
Drive along the SS 115 to Ragusa Ibla crossing one of the tallest viaducts in Europe into a fertile land of citrus groves and carob trees. In via Capitano Bocchieri pick up a map of the maze-like streets from the information office. Next door, have lunch at Ristorante Duomo .
Afternoon
Spend the afternoon wandering through Ragusa Ibla to see the Duomo, San Giuseppe and San Giorgio Vecchio. You can study the Baroque façade of the Duomo from under the trees in the lively piazza with a treat from Gelati DiVini (Piazza Duomo 20) – their ice cream is made from Sicilian wines. But don’t fail to walk through the narrow side streets where tiny alleys are connected with staircases and tunnels, for a taste of authentic Ibla.
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Sit on a terrace facing the wharf where fishermen sell their catch under brightly striped awnings. Fish is prepared simply or in more elaborate Sicilian dishes such as sweet and sour stingray.
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Named after the Arabic Cal’at Ghiran (Castle of Vases), ceramic production has been the main industry in this town since prehistoric times, a tradition documented at the local Museo della Ceramica. The Baroque town built onto a steep hillside is a pleasure to wander through, with characteristic alleyways, cafés and ceramics shops. A stairway leads from the lower town up to the church of Santa Maria del Monte, and each of the 142 steps is decorated with majolica tiles.
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Among the exhibits of Sicilian tradition here are puppets, decorated carts and work room and living quarters of a peasant home (see Casa-Museo di Antonino Uccello, Palazzolo Acreide).
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This Greek military castle was built in 402 BC and is notable for its 15-m (50-ft) keep. Spectacular views of the coastline can be had from its fortifications (see Castello di Eurialo).
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Frederick II built this castle around 1239. It takes its name from the Byzantine George Maniakes who “liberated” Syracuse in the 11th century.
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An ancient river carved out this gorge, which is now an open-air park with good walks and climbs. The cliff sides are hollowed out to form ancient tombs of religious hermits; in one cave is a Byzantine fresco of the Madonna.
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The centre preserves 120 hours of film and 6,000 prints documenting work in the fields and agricultural life.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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