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The “modern” Baroque town was originally a Greek colony of Syracuse, founded in 664 BC. At the archaeological site just next to the village, the small, 600-seat Greek theatre remains in good condition, although temples to Persephone and Aphrodite are in ruins. Old quarries bear a Greek banqueting scene and a Roman sacrifice carved in relief. A short walk outside the old city are the Santoni (Big Saints), enormous statues of fertility goddess Cybele and her entourage carved out of the rock (see Palazzolo Acreide).
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Pantalica was at the heart of ancient Hybla, the culture known now only through its striking red glazed pottery, examples of which are on view in Syracuse. The Anapo River carved a steep gorge through the limestone creating what became Sicily’s largest necropolis; there are more than 8,000 tombs here. A hike through the gorge takes you past thousands of burial sites, carved into the cliff sides, as well as remains of a medieval settlement, wild orchids, irises, rabbits, porcupines, falcons, trout and crabs.
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Excavations here turned up remains of the 8th-century BC houses of the original Sicel culture. Around the oblong piazza are the Duomo, the town hall (located atop an Ionic Temple to Artemis) and outdoor cafés.
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Ragusa was founded as Hybla Heraia by Siculi peoples fleeing inland to escape the Greeks. After the earthquake of 1693, half the population chose to rebuild on the ridge above, (Ragusa) while the other half chose to renovate the old village, (Ragusa Ibla). Ibla makes an immediate impression with its little terracotta roof-tiled buildings clinging dramatically to the side of a cliff. The Duomo is at the heart of town, sited on a rise to emphasize its great height. A Gagliardi masterpiece of 1744, the façade is articulated with a pulsating entablature, bulging columns and swirling volutes pushing upwards toward the tall central bell tower. The oval-shaped cathedral of San Giuseppe presents another projecting Baroque façade. Also not to be missed is the surviving portal of the pre-quake cathedral, Catalan-Gothic in style and with a delicately carved St George slaying the dragon.
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Dominated by a high, rocky cliff, Scicli was an outpost of the Spanish barons during their long reign over the County of Modica. From the wide Piazza Italia, the via Nazionale leads up to the west, passing the side street where the Palazzo Beneventano sits on a corner, its sculptural decoration now weathered by the elements. Via Nazionale continues to the pleasant Piazza Busacca with views down into the older, residential section of town with its narrow lanes and crumbling terracotta roofs.
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On the upland plain around Ragusa and Modica the soil is marked with white stone outcroppings and gorges, while on the lowland plain around Vittoria, the tufa lies almost 1 m (3 ft) below the surface and is topped with a layer of red soil that supports bright green grapevines. Pastures criss-crossed with walls are marked by stone masserie (farmer’s homes). The farmer (massaro ) works the fields, raises livestock and produces grain, olive oil and milk for the local caciocavallo Ragusano cheese.
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On Largo XXV Luglio are the remains of the Doric Temple of Apollo. Built in 575 BC, this was the first temple in Sicily with an exterior colonnade of stone columns. Two monolithic sandstone columns remain.
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The six parallel streets between via della Giudecca and via GB Alagona follow the Greek urban plan. It is still crowded with medieval houses and laundry flapping in the breeze.
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Now lined with boutiques and restaurants, this street was where noble families built their Baroque palaces, often incorporating older structures.
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