The landscape of the southeast is markedly different from the rest of the island, with its strata of white limestone supporting scrubland vegetation, steep gorges formed by ancient river courses, and characteristic low, dry-stone walls marking the boundaries of fertile fields. Yet this small corner of Sicily is rich in sights. Unmissable are the Greek and Roman remains at Syracuse, the most important city of Magna Graecia, while Caltagirone, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, Ragusa and Scicli have all recently been declared World Heritage Sites on the merits of their Baroque architecture and innovative urban planning, the result of the rebuilding effort after the destruction of the 1693 earthquake. Of equal enjoyment is the current gastronomic renaissance taking place in the area, rediscovering both the seafood from the coastal zones and the meats, cheeses and wild greens of the interior. Young chefs, aware that old traditions, methods and even ingredients are on the brink of extinction, are returning to their roots and working hard to revitalize and preserve the authentic cuisine of the region.
In Scicli have a coffee on the terrace at Pura Follia on Via Nazionale, looking out at the tiled rooftops of the old village.-
This tiny village is now a living museum, where eight work rooms and living spaces have been faithfully preserved. They include the home of a peasant farmer, a smithy, olive press and a mill.
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In a restored castle with original frescoes and red drapery, traditional techniques are revisited to create innovative dishes (see Locanda del Borgo, Rosolini).
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The market typically bustles with local housewives and vendors yelling out the merits of their wares. Farmers and fishermen heap mussels, tomatoes, cherries or whatever is plentiful into colourful mounds to entice customers.
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This little fishing village grew up around the tonnara (tuna fishery) and villa of the noble Villadorata family. The old village remains, but with the addition of modern resort features including popular nightclubs.
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Rebuilt after 1693, on and between two deep gorges, the city is dramatically divided in two parts – Modica Alta, the upper town, and Modica Bassa, the lower town. Founded by the Siculi, the city attained great importance under Spanish rule when it was the capital of a quasi-autonomous state ruled by Spanish barons. The lively Corso Umberto I, with boutiques, cafés, pastry shops, numerous palaces and a theatre, crosses Modica Bassa. Also on this street is a monumental flight of steps with excellent Baroque statues of the Apostles that leads up to the post-1693 Duomo dedicated to San Pietro. Up the hill, Modica Alta’s Baroque church of San Giorgio is attributed to Gagliardi. Inside there is characteristic stucco work and 10 beautiful 16th-century wooden panels depicting scenes from the New Testament.
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An antique water-powered grain mill has been restored and put back into action, complete with the mill stones that grind wheat into flour for bread and pasta.
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Here, rooms from a peasant’s home, artisans’ workshops and laboratories are faithfully recreated. See typical workshops of the blacksmith, basketmaker, shoemaker, cartmaker, and a complete pastry workshop with original utensils.
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Noto is the chief proponent of the new cities built entirely in Baroque style after the 1693 earthquake destroyed most of eastern Sicily. Noto was rebuilt using a tufa stone that has turned a golden shade after years of sun, while the architecture is ebullient and dramatic. The town plan involves open, wide streets with plenty of piazzas and piazzettas for gathering and making the passeggiata (see Noto).
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To the northwest of Noto lie the evocative ruins of the pre-earthquake town. Built on an arid, limestone ridge, the site commands views of the Ragusan plain and Mount Etna. Under the hot Sicilian sun, purple thistle and sundried herbs perfume the air.
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Built in the 6th century BC and set amid cypress trees, two of the temple’s 42 columns remain standing.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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