DK Travel : Sicily : Southeast Sicily

The landscape of the southeast is markedly different from the rest of the island, with its strata of white limestone supporting scrubland vegetation, steep gorges formed by ancient river courses, and characteristic low, dry-stone walls marking the boundaries of fertile fields. Yet this small corner of Sicily is rich in sights. Unmissable are the Greek and Roman remains at Syracuse, the most important city of Magna Graecia, while Caltagirone, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, Ragusa and Scicli have all recently been declared World Heritage Sites on the merits of their Baroque architecture and innovative urban planning, the result of the rebuilding effort after the destruction of the 1693 earthquake. Of equal enjoyment is the current gastronomic renaissance taking place in the area, rediscovering both the seafood from the coastal zones and the meats, cheeses and wild greens of the interior. Young chefs, aware that old traditions, methods and even ingredients are on the brink of extinction, are returning to their roots and working hard to revitalize and preserve the authentic cuisine of the region.

In Scicli have a coffee on the terrace at Pura Follia on Via Nazionale, looking out at the tiled rooftops of the old village.

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Ortygia

The tiny island is a bustling mix of temples, churches, museums, open piazzas, seaside bars, markets and shops.
Palazzolo Acreide

The “modern” Baroque town was originally a Greek colony of Syracuse, founded in 664 BC. At the archaeological site just next to the village, the small, 600-seat Greek theatre remains in good condition, although temples to Persephone and Aphrodite are in ruins. Old quarries bear a Greek banqueting scene and a Roman sacrifice carved in relief. A short walk outside the old city are the Santoni (Big Saints), enormous statues of fertility goddess Cybele and her entourage carved out of the rock (see Palazzolo Acreide).
Pantalica Necropolis

Pantalica was at the heart of ancient Hybla, the culture known now only through its striking red glazed pottery, examples of which are on view in Syracuse. The Anapo River carved a steep gorge through the limestone creating what became Sicily’s largest necropolis; there are more than 8,000 tombs here. A hike through the gorge takes you past thousands of burial sites, carved into the cliff sides, as well as remains of a medieval settlement, wild orchids, irises, rabbits, porcupines, falcons, trout and crabs.
Piazza del Duomo

Excavations here turned up remains of the 8th-century BC houses of the original Sicel culture. Around the oblong piazza are the Duomo, the town hall (located atop an Ionic Temple to Artemis) and outdoor cafés.
Ragusa Ibla

Ragusa was founded as Hybla Heraia by Siculi peoples fleeing inland to escape the Greeks. After the earthquake of 1693, half the population chose to rebuild on the ridge above, (Ragusa) while the other half chose to renovate the old village, (Ragusa Ibla). Ibla makes an immediate impression with its little terracotta roof-tiled buildings clinging dramatically to the side of a cliff. The Duomo is at the heart of town, sited on a rise to emphasize its great height. A Gagliardi masterpiece of 1744, the façade is articulated with a pulsating entablature, bulging columns and swirling volutes pushing upwards toward the tall central bell tower. The oval-shaped cathedral of San Giuseppe presents another projecting Baroque façade. Also not to be missed is the surviving portal of the pre-quake cathedral, Catalan-Gothic in style and with a delicately carved St George slaying the dragon.
Ristorante Duomo, Ragusa Ibla

Ciccio Sultano expertly chooses and prepares local ingredients. The food is outstanding, served in an elegant dining room (see Ristorante Duomo, Ragusa).
Ristorante Fidone Maria, Friginitini

This family-run place near Ragusa prepares everything in house, and it’s all excellent (see Ristorante Fidone Maria, Friginitini).
Sakalleo, Scoglliti

The menu depends upon what the owner’s fishing boats bring in. The animated owner may also have a glass of wine with you.
Scicli

Dominated by a high, rocky cliff, Scicli was an outpost of the Spanish barons during their long reign over the County of Modica. From the wide Piazza Italia, the via Nazionale leads up to the west, passing the side street where the Palazzo Beneventano sits on a corner, its sculptural decoration now weathered by the elements. Via Nazionale continues to the pleasant Piazza Busacca with views down into the older, residential section of town with its narrow lanes and crumbling terracotta roofs.
Southeast Plains

On the upland plain around Ragusa and Modica the soil is marked with white stone outcroppings and gorges, while on the lowland plain around Vittoria, the tufa lies almost 1 m (3 ft) below the surface and is topped with a layer of red soil that supports bright green grapevines. Pastures criss-crossed with walls are marked by stone masserie (farmer’s homes). The farmer (massaro ) works the fields, raises livestock and produces grain, olive oil and milk for the local caciocavallo Ragusano cheese.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €25
- €25-€35
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- over €70