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The classic Sicilian red, made from at least 80 per cent of grapes of the same name with added Perricone, is characterized by its intense ruby colour and flavour of aromatic herbs. It’s produced over the entire eastern half of the island but the two largest producers are between Palermo and Cefalù: Regealali and Duca di Salaparuta.

Eighty per cent Catarratto with a dash of Damaschino, Grecanico and Trebbiano make up this dry and fruity white. Abundant production (more grapes are grown in Trapani than any other Sicilian province) made this the classic Sicilian white. The area from San Vito Lo Capo to Castellammare and inland to Alcamo and Calatafimi is under DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata ) protection.

A fortified wine produced in Marsala since the 18th century. Awarded a DOC in 1986, Marsala is produced as Fine, Superiore (aged at least two years), Riserva (aged at least four years) or Vergine and Soleras (aged at least 10 years). Made from Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia grapes, the wine is amber with a rich perfume of citrus flowers and almonds.

The cherry-red, dry and fruity wine is made from a blend of Frappato, Calabrese and Nerello grapes grown near Vittoria in the province of Ragusa. Established producers are buying vineyards in the area to produce their own versions of Cerasuolo.

Producers on Salina leave their Malvasia delle Lipari grapes to dry out on the vine or on mats to concentrate the flavours to make a sweet, thick dessert wine. Pantelleria’s Zibbibo grapes are treated in a similar way, left on the vine until the flavours have condensed to make a dessert wine with intense tastes of dried fruits and vanilla.

Sicily’s first DOC was awarded in 1968 to the southern and eastern zone of Mount Etna where the white grapes Cataratto and Carricante flourish. Reds, mostly the Nerello Mascalese, grow around the volcano’s base.

The estate near Valledolmo has been in the Tasca d’Almerita family since 1830. Alongside traditional Sicilian wines Regaleali also bottles international varieties. Their reds, based on Nero d’Avola, include Regaleali Rosso and the Rosso del Conte; whites primarily of Inzolia and their own VarietàTasca, include Villa Tasca and Nozze d’Oro.

Marco de Bartoli and his sons cultivate indigenous grapes and remain faithful to the traditions of their area. Their production includes classic Marsalas and the unfortified Vecchio Samperi, aged for 20 or 30 years.

At his estate near Sambuca di Sicilia, Diego Planeta and family plant both indigenous and international grapes – taste La Segreta Rosso (Nero d’Avola with Merlot and Syrah).

Many small producers are making excellent wines. Look out for Fondo Antico, Cusumano, Racalmare di Morgante, Rudinì and Calabretta, among others.