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The peak time to visit the city is from 11 Jun–2 Jul, during White Nights, when the sun never quite sets. Failing this, the weather during late May–Aug is usually good. If it is snow and ice you are after, then mid-Jan to end-Feb is ideal.

The main national holidays include: 1 Jan, New Year’s Day; 7 Jan, Russian Orthodox Christmas; 23 Feb, Defenders of the Motherland Day; Mar/Apr, Easter Sunday; 8 Mar, International Women’s Day; 1 May, Labour Day; 9 May, Victory Day; 12 Jun, Russia Day; 4 Nov, Day of National Unity; 7 Nov, Day of Reconciliation; 12 Dec, Constitution Day.

A week to nine days is plenty of time to see most of the main sights in the city without having to rush. However, shorter periods, even a weekend during White Nights, are enough to get a proper feel for St Petersburg.

All foreign visitors must obtain a visa before travelling to Russia, and passports must be valid for a minimum of 6 months after the expiry date. Visa applications can be submitted in person at a Russian consulate, by an agent or by mail. Independent travellers must provide proof of their hotel reservation and those visitors staying at private homes need to produce an official invitation from their host. Detailed information on how to make a visa application depending on your nationality can be found at www.rusemblon.org

If you are travelling in winter, then take warm clothes and thick, waterproof boots. Most goods are available in St Petersburg, although if you are on prescribed medication, you should bring enough to last the entire duration of your trip. English language books can be found in the city, although the choice is fairly limited.

Clothes are more expensive in Russia than in the US or UK. Basic food items, such as bread, are very cheap and public transport is incredibly good value. There are no bargains to be had on electronic items and foreigners are often charged up to 15 times more than Russians for entrance to top sights.

Russian is a very complex language, but it is not difficult to learn a few polite phrases before setting off on your trip. The Russian language uses the Cyrillic alphabet, which is fairly easy to grasp at a basic level. Given that many English words are in use in Russia, a little knowledge of the Cyrillic alphabet can come in very handy.

The electrical current is 220 V. The plugs are two-pin, but some of the older sockets do not accept standard European plugs. Adaptors are cheaply available in shops that sell electrical items, though it may be a good idea to take a couple with you to save time.

Children under five travel free on the metro and are entitled to free entry to museums. The city, however, is not exactly brimming over with attractions for children. Old Russian women are very fond of giving parents advice along the lines of “Put a hat on that child!”, especially during winter.

Pulkovo 2 is the city’s international airport, yet it is relatively small and underdeveloped. The queues can be long during weekends. You will find duty-free shops and foreign exchange offices in the departure and arrival halls.

The Pulkovo 1 is exclusively used for domestic and charter international flights. Flights to and from Moscow have separate arrival and departure lounges. The rates at the foreign exchange booths here, as at Pulkovo 2, are not as good as those in the main city.

Russian airlines suffer from an image problem. However, Rossiya, Aeroflot and Transaero run safe international and domestic services.

There are not many cheap flights from the West to St Petersburg, although once or twice a year, Aeroflot offers very good deals on flights to Moscow – check their website for details.

The journey by boat from Moscow takes around two weeks. Boats dock in St Petersburg at the River Terminal, near Proletarskaya metro station.

There are many trains from Moscow to St Petersburg, including an express daytime train, which takes five hours. However, the most popular trains are the overnight ones, which take over eight hours. You can travel by platzkarte, coupe or SV, which are, respectively, a seat in a carriage, a berth in a four-person cabin and a bed in a two-person cabin. Most trains arrive at Ploshchad Vosstaniya.

All visitors are given an immigration card upon arrival. This must be kept on your person for the entire duration of the visit and shown to the police upon request. Photocopies are usually not accepted. You are required to carry your passport at all times, too.

If you are carrying cash over the value of US$1,500, antiques, valuable jewellery, laptops, or other electrical equipment upon entry into Russia, you will have to fill out a customs declaration form. You will need to present it when you leave, so that you can take the items back with you.

Taxis from the airport to the city can be booked in advance and cost about $50. You will also find official city taxis, which are not really any cheaper than pre-booked cars, and private taxis which cost around $25 – make sure you agree on the fare beforehand.

The city’s metro is incredibly good value and trains come at fast intervals, ranging from a minute during rush hour, to four or five minutes late at night. The metro is open until midnight, although trains continue to run until 12:15am. More than just a mode of public transport, the metro is a sight in its own right.

While ticket prices are increasing rapidly, a bus journey is still good value. Bus stops are identifiable by their white and yellow signs with a red “A” (for avtobus). These buses can be very crowded during rush hour. The expensive, privately run buses add a “K” before their bus numbers, which are the same as those of the state-operated buses.

Trams (tramvai) are popular all over the former Soviet Union, and St Petersburg is no exception. The stops are identifiable by the red and white signs above the tram rails. Less crowded than buses, they are a great way to see the city. However, they tend to break down frequently.

Trolley buses, unlike trams, run up and down Nevskiy prospekt, and in this part of the city, at least, are a very convenient and cheap way of getting around. However, they can get uncomfortably crowded and, like trams, often break down. Blue and white signs mark the stops.

Official, licensed taxis are very hard to find, but the number is steadily growing and it is now possible to order a taxi. Numbers for taxi firms can be found in most local newspapers. Licensed taxis are easier to find outside the top hotels, although their prices are, as you would imagine, a lot higher.

St Petersburg is an excellent city for walking. Many of the main sights, especially those at the city’s centre, are extremely close together, making it easy to travel from one to the other by foot.

Street signs are in both Russian and English in the centre, but those in the outskirts of the city are in Russian only. The English street signs are a relatively recent phenomenon. Many were erected in time for the city’s 300th anniversary .

Mini buses (marshrutnoye taksi) are privately run and sprang up in the years following perestroika, quickly becoming a feature of city life. They travel around the city, following standard bus routes. Pay the driver when you get in or take your seat and pass the money on. Be careful not to slam the door – for some reason the drivers particularly dislike this.

Chastniki are private taxi drivers who drive around the city looking for fares. Their cars are not designated as taxis – you need to put your hand out to attract one. In the days following the collapse of the USSR, many of the chastniki were newly impoverished scientists, lawyers and other professional people looking to make ends meet. Today they mostly tend to be pensioners, immigrants and students trying to earn a bit of cash on the side.

It is best to avoid the tap water here. Although the authorities claim it is safe, the pipes that carry it are old. It would be better to stick to bottled water, which is widely available. The tap water is fine for showers.

Russians are famed for their drinking and usually drink their vodka straight, in a single gulp. If you decide to get into a drinking session with the locals, follow their example and take a bite to eat after each shot to soak up the alcohol – failure to do so can have dreadful consequences.

When stopping a private car, make sure that there are no other passengers in it. Some gangs of robbers drive around the city, posing as chastniki. Make sure that the back seat is empty before getting into a car.

Gangs of beggars roam the main tourist areas. Many of them, usually children, can be very difficult to shake off if you give them money. The best thing, unfortunately, is just to ignore them. If you really want to hand over some cash, make absolutely sure they are alone.

During the summer, the city’s many bridges are raised between 2–5am to allow ships to pass. This can lead to problems. It is easy to get stranded coming home late at night, particularly if you are staying on the outskirts of the city. Consult the website for details.

The police supplement their meagre salaries by stopping passersby, demanding to see passports and registration documents. They often claim there is some “irregularity” – one that is usually non-existent – and demand payment of an on-the-spot fine, but no receipts are offered. If you are sure there is nothing wrong with your documents and do not want to pay $10–20, simply refuse and they will, eventually, go away. Of course, this works better if you speak Russian confidently.

In recent years, the city has gained a reputation as the centre of right-wing extremism in Russia. Skinhead gangs have been known to attack non-caucasian residents and visitors. To avoid any such incident, it is best not to linger at the metro at night and to be aware of your surroundings at all times. That said, however, the threat is exaggerated by the media and there is little point in getting unduly paranoid.

One of the most popular cons starts with a wallet being dropped. When a helpful tourist picks it up, the person who dropped it, at first grateful, then accuses the tourist of having lifted some cash. The rest varies, almost always ending with the tourist out of pocket. Avoid dropped wallets like the plague!

The demand for Soviet memorabilia far outstrips the supply and many of the goods will have been produced especially for the tourist market.

Men greet each other with a handshake. Women are greeted with a nod or, if they are very close, a kiss on the cheek. Friends of all ages greet each other with the word “Privet!”, while “Zdravstvuyte” is used for formal occasions.

Russians are, more by circumstance than by desire, accustomed to political discussion. While the younger generation is more politically apathetic than that which grew up in the USSR, discussions on the Chechen War can become heated, particularly if a tone critical of Russia’s actions there is taken.

Russians are a lot more willing to ask, and answer, questions that may be considered to be of a personal nature in the West. These may include questions about salaries or even family life. However, as a foreigner, you may be seen to be “prying” if you are the one who initiates such a bout of questioning!

It is accepted practice for young men and women to give up seats to their elders, pregnant women and invalids on public transport. Failure to do so may lead to on-the-spot public condemnation from your fellow passengers. The younger generation is, however, slowly losing the habit of public transport gallantry.

In Russia, men are expected to foot the bill in restaurants for ladies. Any suggestion to go Dutch would be frowned upon. Also, Western women may be shocked or delighted, depending on their outlook, to find doors opened for them, to be helped off buses and to be excluded from any physical work.

Russians drink plenty of vodka and the process of drinking has its own rituals. Never drink from the bottle and always take a bite to eat between shots. Toasts are long and frequently made – if you are called upon to make one, a simple “Za Zdorovie!” (“to your health!”) just won’t be enough.

Russians are among the world’s heaviest smokers. Most restaurants have a section set aside for them. There are no smoke-free bars or clubs. However, smoking is banned on public transport. Cigarettes are cheap in Russia, with many foreign brands being bootlegged. There are also the Russian non-filtered cigarettes on sale for absurdly cheap prices.

If you are invited to a private flat, it is customary to bring a bottle of something, and some flowers for the woman of the house. Russians take their shoes off at home and change into slippers.

In offices, shops and stations, there is a “public front” which involves a certain rudeness when dealing with strangers, although attitudes are changing. These same people may well be warm, kind individuals. However, if you are encountering them in their guise of minor official, shop assistant or ticket-seller, you are not likely to experience the benign side of their character.

Street food is found in abundance, from ice cream and hot dogs to pies and doner kebabs. While most of it is safe to eat, some meat products, especially those sold by old women around the main train terminals, should probably be avoided – the “meat” may be of dubious origin.

Tipping is not expected in taxis, but is commonplace in restaurants. At places where it is not included in a service charge, feel free to leave as much as you consider right – 10–15 per cent is the norm.

Most restaurants and cafés open around noon. Many stay open until the last guest leaves while some close their doors from around 11pm. In top-end hotels, restaurants open for breakfast, as do many cafés in the city. Alcohol can be bought round the clock.

Zakuski (appetisers), are usually eaten cold before the main meal. These could be salads, marinated mushrooms, pancakes, pickled herring or gherkins. They are usually served with bread and sour cream. There are also specific zakuski to accompany beer and vodka, including dried, salted fish, dried squid and anchovies.

In a majority of the restaurants in the centre and other tourist areas, menus will be in Russian and English. However, outside these areas, they are likely to be in Russian only, and it is improbable that your waiter will know more than a few words of English.

The main restaurant area is Nevskiy prospekt and the streets around it. Here, you can find a wide selection of cuisines, from Japanese to Georgian. Once you get outside this area, however, restaurants become thinner on the ground. The area around the Mariinskiy Theatre is also good for restaurants and cafés.

Sushi is wildly popular all over Russia. In fact, according to a recent survey, Russia boasts the most sushi restaurants in the world outside of Japan. The quality, however, varies, from freshly flown-in to deep-frozen lumps of “fish”. As always, let the price and reputation of the eatery be your guide.

The Russian for waiter and waitress is “ofitsant” and “ofitsantka”, respectively. Yet it is customary to attract the attention of waitresses with a simple “Devushka!”(Girl!). It may sound very rude in the translation, but no one takes offence.

In the USSR, vegetarianism was practically non-existent. However, since the collapse of the Soviet system, more and more Russians have begun to give up meat. Their numbers are still small, so there are only a few vegetarian restaurants in Russia, and practically none outside St Petersburg. The good news for vegetarians in St Petersburg is Idiot , which serves non-meat versions of traditional Russian dishes.

The currency of Russia is the rouble. One rouble consists of 100 kopeks. The rouble has stabilized of late, but the currency cannot be obtained outside Russia even today. A few years ago, many businesses gave prices in US dollars, or Y.E. (a dollar equivalent). While this is still common, many are switching over to indicating prices in roubles.

Exchange booths are freely available all over the city these days. US dollars and Euros are the easiest to change, while pounds sterling can be changed in banks and top hotels. Avoid anyone who offers to change money for you on the street – he is certainly a swindler.

Major credit cards are readily accepted at all top restaurants and hotels, but not at most other places, such as small shops and cafés. The widely accepted credit cards are Eurocard, VISA and MasterCard; American Express is not as recognized. If your credit card is lost or stolen, immediately inform the credit card company.

Traveller’s cheques have not really caught on in Russia and are only accepted in a handful of banks. Commission is generally 3 per cent. The American Express traveller’s cheques can be cashed at American Express offices for a commission of 2 per cent – you will need to provide your passport as proof of identity.

Post out of Russia can be incredibly slow and unreliable – letters to the US or Europe can take months to arrive, or even longer. Westpost runs a reliable, fairly inexpensive service. The Corinthia Nevskij Palace Hotel operates a good postal service via Finland. This service is of European standards and letters to the UK take three to four days to arrive.

There are many public telephones in St Petersburg. While some accept coins, the majority only take telephone cards. These cards are sold at metro underpasses and at some of the metro ticket offices. Calls are relatively cheap.

In order to call Russia from abroad, dial 007. To reach a number within the city, dial 007 and then the city code – 812 – followed by the number you are trying to reach. To dial Moscow from St Petersburg, or vice versa, dial 8 and wait for the dial tone. Then dial the number, beginning with the respective city code.

Most of the mobile phones with the roaming facility will work here, but the service is very expensive. To be sure, check with your provider before leaving. If you are in Russia for some time, it makes sense to buy a SIM card from one of the local providers.

Internet cafés can be found all over the city, especially at the centre, on and around Nevskiy prospekt. They are identifiable by the word “Internet” in English. Speeds are fast and cheap.

Petty crime, like in any big city, is common, but organized crime, in the form of the Russian Mafia, is unlikely to affect the average tourist.

In an emergency, 02 is the official emergency hotline, but the operator may not speak English. There is a police hotline for foreigners. You may also want to consider contacting your consulate if you have a particularly serious problem.

As in any large city, take all the precautions that you normally would to protect yourself. Avoid walking alone at night and keep your passport in a safe place. Watch out for scams, but try not to be paranoid. Women tourists need not feel unsafe, but it is best to avoid travelling alone by cab late at night.

The pickpocket gangs work the main tourist areas – Nevskiy prospekt is a favourite haunt. Be careful on the metro – watch out for wandering hands and people pressing up close to you. If you can, leave your valuables in the hotel safe.

There are different sorts of police in St Petersburg. Firstly, there are the beat cops, or militsya, who wear dark blue-grey uniforms. There is also the OMON, who deal with special situations, including football hooligans and demonstrations. They are identifiable by their badges and grim demeanours. Lastly, there are the traffic cops, or DPS. The police are notorious for stopping drivers and extracting “fines” for minor infringements of the law.

If you become ill, and are staying at a good hotel, speak to someone at reception or dial the number for ambulances. However, the service is slow and the operator is unlikely to speak English. The MEDEM Clinic specializes in dealing with foreigners. If you have minor cuts or bruises, it would be cheaper to go to the Trauma Clinic of the Central District.

The word for pharmacy is apteka. These are very easy to find, with many of them open 24 hours. However, it is a good idea to bring essential medicines with you, as they may be known under different names at the local pharmacies.

Good dentistry is expensive. The MEDEM clinic provides dentistry services, but they are not cheap. An alternative is to ask your hotel to provide you with an English-speaking dentist.

If you lose your passport or are robbed, promptly contact your consulate or embassy. Note that embassies and consulates are extremely reluctant to lend money, though. The UK, US, Canada and Australia consulates are in St Petersburg, while Ireland’s and New Zealand’s are in Moscow.

The main five-star hotels are located in the centre, on and around Nevskiy prospekt. There are some good hotels further out as well. Budget hotels, catering to students and young people, have also begun to spring up in the last few years. Most of them, again, are located in and around the city centre.

Top quality, international chain hotels will have impeccably clean rooms, efficient service and be of the expected standard. Other hotels can be something of a hit-and-miss affair. Generally, however, all hotels are clean and the staff is polite, though language may be a problem.

The hotel star system in Russia is somewhat arbitrary, with many hotels awarding themselves the number of stars they feel they deserve. Keep in mind that the overall standard of hotels is lower than it is in the West. However, five-star hotels, particularly those with an international reputation, will always meet the equivalent global standards.

If you are thinking of a visit during the peak White Nights period, it is wise to book a room a few months in advance. Most hotels now have an online booking system. There are also agencies that provide booking services. The top hotels can also provide visa support for short stays.

Some hotels fail to include taxes or breakfast in the advertised price. This can come as something of a shock when checking out, so be sure to ask. Making phone calls from your room, especially international ones, is very expensive. In smaller hotels, local calls may be free, while the international line will probably be locked.

Payments can be made in the top hotels by credit card or cash. In smaller hotels, cash may be your only option. Larger hotels may require credit card details to make bookings, with money debited in the event of a late cancellation. Hotel prices go up significantly during the White Nights period.

While all hotels welcome families, only a few have children’s facilities. The large chain hotels offer certain services and may help arrange a baby­sitter for you – check this before booking. Some of the restaurants have special children’s menus.

Taxis provided by your hotel are more expensive than the usual taxis or the chastniki . However, they do have the advantage of being very safe, with cars that are in good condition. If you can afford it, take a hotel taxi. If not, be careful when dealing with chastniki.

Again, the top hotels are the safest, with security guards, regular bag searches and metal detectors. However, it is still a good idea to leave your valuables in the hotel’s safe. Smaller hotels may simply have a doorman, who, in some places, may even be a moonlighting member of the city’s police force. Generally, hotels are safe in the city, although you need to exercise basic precautionary measures.

Most of the shops are usually open from 10am until 7pm, seven days a week. The city has many 24-hour shops, ranging from simple grocery stores to hip boutiques.

Only top places accept credit cards. Some shops may advertise the fact that they accept cards, but this is a perestroika-period hangover from when stickers advertising Western goods and services were stuck up even if not actually offered. Carry plenty of cash when shopping. You may be asked to show your passport when paying by credit card.

Haggling is not practised in shops, but in markets, especially the ones selling souvenirs, it is expected. Do not expect huge discounts, as the price you are offered is probably only about 15 per cent more than the minimum the stall owner is willing to accept. If you are buying in bulk, discounts can be higher.

Refunds in Russia are given only if you have the chek (original receipt). However, for electronic items, you may be directed to the manufacturing company’s local service centre. The law on refunds is subject to change, but if you can read Russian, the most recent version of the law is usually displayed on the shop’s noticeboard.

St Petersburg’s main shopping areas are located around the commercial part of Gostinyy Dvor, but the items here are most expensive. Apart from goods such as vodka and caviar, the city is not exactly a shoppers’ paradise – prices for a great deal of goods are likely to be even higher than in the West.

Although the government makes noises about clamping down on illegal DVDs and CDs, Russia, along with China and the neighbouring Ukraine, remains one of the biggest producers of bootleg films, music and software in the world. Pirate DVDs are available all over St Petersburg for about $4 a film. Quality, however, may not always be good.

Russians, especially women, are extremely fashion conscious – a reaction to the severe lack of choice during the Soviet period. Imported clothes, especially the designer labels at St Petersburg’s boutiques, are very expensive.

There are no bargains to be had in Russia when it comes to electronic items, such as music systems and DVD players. Many of these items will be a lot more expensive than in the West – the result of a severe lack of competitive pricing on the domestic market. Indeed, many Russians bring electronic items home with them from their trips abroad.

Although a law has recently been passed forbidding the sale of drinks with an alcohol content of over 15 per cent between 11pm–8am, strong liquor is, nevertheless, very easy to come by. Alcohol is absurdly cheap, and even Soviet champagne goes for less than $10 a bottle. Imported beer in bars is the only exception, costing the same or even more than it would in the West.