DK Travel : Sydney : Balmain & Leichhardt

William Balmain , a surgeon on the First Fleet, was granted 223 ha (550 acres) west of the city in 1800, perhaps in gratitude for having tended to Governor Phillip following his 1790 spearing (see Collins Beach). The area was subdivided in the mid-1800s, and grand harbourside residences were erected alongside working-class stone and timber cottages and a multitude of pubs that catered to the employees of the local timber, mining and maritime industries. By the 1960s, Balmain had become a haven for writers, artists and actors, a reputation it still retains today. Leichhardt’s cultural connections are more tenuous. The suburb was named after the explorer Ludwig Leichhardt (see A Walk from Circular Quay to the QVB) who disappeared without a trace while crossing the continent in 1848; Patrick White (see Patrick White (1912–90)) immortalized Leichhardt in his 1957 novel, Voss. Now Leichhardt is home to two diverse populations – Sydney’s colourful “Little Italy” and a prominent lesbian community.

A café-junkshop in Balmain

Balmain war memorial

Saturday Balmain Markets at St. Andrew’s

The Leichhardt area once belonged to the Wangal tribe of indigenous people. There isn’t much accommodation in Leichhardt, but if you’re keen to stay in the area, try the Pensione Italia at 73 Renwick Street. The annual Italian Festa on Norton Street draws thousands of visitors every March for food, music and rides.

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A Balmain Stroll

Morning

Catch a ferry from Circular Quay to the quaint Darling Street Wharf. Enter Illoura Reserve and walk south beneath she-oaks and other native trees to Peacock Point ’s views across to Darling Harbour (see Darling Harbour & Chinatown). Johnston Street has great views of Anzac Bridge . Head back to Darling Street and admire some of Balmain’s finest residences. Turn into Killeen Street and wander down through Ewenton Park. Around the corner is grand Hampton Villa overlooking the docklands, home of Sir Henry Parkes. Back at Darling Street, get a drink at the pleasant London Hotel. Then, window-shop all the way to the Town Hall. Finally, backtrack to Go Bungai at 333 Darling Street for the best Japanese lunch in town.

Afternoon

After lunch, continue back down Darling Street to Mort Street and turn left. At the end is Mort Bay Park, site of the former Mort’s Dock shipyards, named for Thomas Mort (see St Andrew’s Cathedral), which is now open harbourside parkland. Follow the shoreline around to the steps leading up to Wharf Road via Ronald Street. This lovely street leads to Snails Bay and the historic Birchgrove Park. A path traces the shoreline to Louisa Road, which has some seriously expensive real estate. Turn right and head towards Yurulbin Park for some spectacular harbour views before catching the ferry back to Circular Quay.
Alfie’s Little Brother Carter

A neat shop sells the best local and imported streetwear.
Balmain East

At the eastern end of the Balmain peninsula is the Darling Point Wharf, overlooked by manicured Thornton Park. A sign tracing the route of the Balmain History Trail can be found near the bus stop. On Darling Street, check out the former Dolphin Hotel and the Waterman’s Cottage. To the south, Peacock Point offers great views over Millers Point, Darling Harbour and the Anzac Bridge. Mort Bay Reserve to the north features two massive ships’ propellers and views over the ferry and tugboat maintenance yards in Mort Bay.
Belle Fleur

Handcrafted chocolates and truffles, many with unusual flavours such as wattleseed and lemon myrtle, are exquisitely decorated and boxed.
Berkelouw

At this wonderful bookstore, take your tomes to the café upstairs and settle into a comfy couch.
Birchgrove

This area has some lovely Colonial homes, a small shopping village on Rowntree Street and Birchgrove Park, the site of Australia’s first Rugby League match in 1908. The northern tip of Birchgrove is known as Yurulbin Point, formerly called Long Nose Point, which, along with Manns Point, forms the mouth of the Parramatta River. Yurulbin Park has spectacular views of the Harbour Bridge, and an interpretation board near the ferry wharf provides interesting details on the area’s Aboriginal heritage.
Blue Ginger

Modern Asian food from Thailand, Vietnam, China and Japan at great prices. There’s something for everyone.
Cockatoo Island

The largest of Sydney Harbour’s islands has been used variously since 1839 as a granary, prison and shipyard. The island’s granaries were cut deep into the sandstone by some of the colony’s most recalcitrant convicts, some of whom hailed from the infamous Norfolk Island penal colony. Convicts were quartered on the island until 1871, although several escaped, including the bushranger nicknamed “Captain Thunderbolt.” Fitzroy Dock was completed in 1870, and Sutherland Dock in 1890. From that time on it was a major shipyard, especially for the Australian Navy during both World Wars. The island is managed by the Sydney Harbour Federation Trust (see The Islands), who also run tours.
Commercial Hotel

You’ll wish the second oldest pub in Balmain was your local after enjoying live music, shelves full of books and couches to relax in.
Darling Street

Darling Street runs from the wharf in Balmain East to Victoria Road in Rozelle. It’s a steady uphill climb from the wharf past narrow Victorian houses until you reach the friendly London Hotel, just before a large roundabout. En route you pass the childhood home of former New South Wales premier Neville Wran, No. 117, and the 1854 Watch House at No. 179, the oldest in Sydney. Find Gladstone Park past the roundabout, and St. Andrew’s across the road, which hosts the Balmain Markets every Saturday. From here on it’s boutiques, cafés, bookshops and salons all the way to the Victorian court house, Town Hall, Fire Station and Library (see Storytime Readings).

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Restaurant price categories

For a two course meal for one with a drink (or equivalent meal), plus taxes and extra charges.
- under $35
- $35–$60
- $60–$120
- $120–$200
- over $200