A few years ago , Newtown didn’t even register a blip on the tourist radar. But a trendy crowd has recently given this suburb the raffish charm that several other suburbs have lost since falling victim to Sydney’s relentless inner-city gentrification. It’s still a bit rough around the edges, which makes it a great place to shop for funky clothes, books and retro furnishings, and it has some groovy cafés. Glebe, on the other hand, is almost the grand dame of gentrified inner-city suburbs. In 1789, Governor Phillip granted the chaplain of the First Fleet, Reverend Richard Johnson, 162 ha (400 acres) for services rendered. Today, Glebe accommodates workers’ cottages and impressive 19th-century residences on tree-lined streets that meander down to the harbour. It is also home to numerous cafés and restaurants, an arthouse cinema, Sydney’s best bookshop Gleebooks, pleasant harbourside parks and the ever-popular Glebe Market.
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This stunning bridge was named in honour of Australia’s WWI soldiers: Anzac stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps. It spans narrow Johnstons Bay and links Pyrmont with Rozelle and Balmain (see Balmain & Leichhardt). Opened in 1995, this is the longest cable-stayed span bridge in Australia, and many consider it Sydney’s finest. A pedestrian path runs beside the inbound lanes and is accessible from Quarry Master Drive, north of the Sydney Fish Market. It offers great views of the city in the distance and the adjacent swing-span 1901 Glebe Island Bridge below.
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Stop in to enjoy the bohemian charm of this busy café-cum-meeting spot, but expect haphazard service.
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Sydney’s oldest remaining cemetery lies in the grounds of St Stephen’s Church. When the cemetery was established in 1848, it was one of three serving all of Sydney. Many historic figures are buried here, including Alexander Macleay (see Elizabeth Bay House), Colonial Secretary from 1826 to 1837. When the Dunbar sank just outside Sydney Heads in 1857 (see Dunbar Sinks), the bodies recovered were buried in a mass grave at Camperdown and a memorial was erected for them. Eliza Donnithorne, thought to be the inspiration for Charles Dickens’ Miss Havisham, also lies there. While walking the peaceful paths, note the gravestones lining the walls. These original stones were moved inside when the outer area was turned into a park.
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Need a bag that will last a 100 years? That’s the guarantee Crumpler gives you on their backpacks, laptop carriers, iPod holders and bean bags.
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King Street has plenty of second-hand clothes stores and this is the best of them, carefully divided for easy browsing.
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Morning
Start your day in classic Newtown style with a strong coffee at Barmuda, 283 Australia Street. Then follow Australia Street to Lennox Street and turn right. At the end is St Stephen’s Church, designed by Edmund Blacket (see St Andrew’s Cathedral). Beside the church is the entrance to the historic, peaceful Camperdown Cemetery. Soak up the Gothic atmosphere before heading back to hectic King Street. Check out the bookshops, cafés and funky clothing stores that run almost as far as Little Queen Street. Turn left, cross over Carillon Avenue and enter the manicured grounds of the Sydney University. Turn right into Physics Lane, left into Fisher Road, and right into Manning Road, reaching the archway that leads through to the Main Quadrangle. Pass beneath the Gothic Revival clock tower and wander down University Avenue to the open space of Victoria Park. Finally, head to bohemian Glebe Point Road to Badde Manors for lunch.
Afternoon
Follow Glebe Point Road to Pendrill Street, turn left and follow the scent of incense downhill to the Sze Yup Temple. Turn right into Edward Street, left into Eglington Lane, and right again into Edward Lane to reach Jubilee Park. The Pope Paul VI Reserve can be found in the northeast corner. When done, catch a 431 or 434 bus back to town.
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Newtown girls love a bit of retro styling, and this is where they find it. New clothes in the style of traditional favourites include T-shirt dresses, minis, shorts and tanks.
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In this shrine to all things rock and rockabilly, find punk T-shirts, 1950s skirts, studded belts, magazines, records and much more.
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Considered Sydney’s best Lebanese restaurant, Fifi’s offers generous serves of traditional dishes.
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The vegetarian dishes are the highlight here. Try a mix of daal and curries, and cut the spice with a cold mango lassi.
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Restaurant price categories
For a two course meal for one with a drink (or equivalent meal), plus taxes and extra charges.
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